That's not mud, it's Steiger Cement!
Jim Knox
91 Dak
----- Original Message -----
From: <dean_ocque@yahoo.com>
To: <dakota-truck-moderator@bent.twistedbits.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 24, 2004 5:58 AM
Subject: RE: DML: Brake problems
>
> The funny thing about it is I know of two others that have the same
exact
> problem. Our only common thread was the DML BBQ. Nobody told me that mud
is bad
> for moving parts. Someone should post signs at the BBQ warning people. I
will
> never off road again.
>
> As long as I get things fixed by this weekend. Heading to the trails,
and
> the wife will be doing all the driving.
>
>
> In article <001b01c48931$5c9332d0$7900a8c0@highland>, barnesrv@comcast.net
> ("Rick Barnes") writes:
> >
> >
> > Dean, remember when I emailed you off list over the weekend? I was at
my
> > home in KY. While I was returning to my other house in GA, my right
front
> > began to drag badly. I suspected a bad brake line too, but I think I
will
> > just replace the calipers first.
> >
> > Rascal
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net
> > [mailto:owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net] On Behalf Of
> > dean_ocque@yahoo.com
> > Sent: Monday, August 23, 2004 11:43 AM
> > To: dakota-truck-moderator@bent.twistedbits.net
> > Subject: Re: DML: Brake problems
> >
> >
> > For once, I was actually doing it right. I gave up on it because the
> > brake
> > was still rubbing. I took it in to the shop, and they found (for
whatever
> > reason) the steering knuckle had bent causing the caliper to rub. They
did
> > not
> > have a replacement, so they heated it up and bent it back. They said not
to
> > do
> > any off road or hard breaking until I get it replaced. They said the
heat
> > has
> > weakened the metal. All I know is 1 mile of a pad rubbing makes a pretty
red
> > glow. Fortunately for me, it didn't warp the rotor.
> >
> > Thanks for the advice.
> >
> > In article <4126CE47.80409@aol.com>, SilverEightynine@aol.com (Terrible
Tom)
> > writes:
> > >
> > >
> > > dean_ocque@yahoo.com wrote:
> > > > My driver's side brake locked up. I replaced the caliper, but am not
> > sure
> > > > what the problem is now. It will not pull back completely. I have
bled
> > the
> > > > line, but was told I still need to keep bleeding them because there
is
> > still
> > > > air in them. What is the proper way to bleed the lines? The old
days,
> > you
> > just
> > > > kept pumping the brakes a few times (with the engine off), and when
you
> > get
> > a
> > > > steady stream, keep the brake depressed, and tighten the bleeder.
> > > >
> > > > Any ideas?
> > >
> > > Did you replace the rubber brake hose? Many times if you have a
caliper
> > > that is locking up or have problems bleeding a line, it can be a
faulty
> > > brake hose. Try this. Try compressing the piston on the caliper with
> > > the bleeder screw closed. If you can't compress it or it doesnt want
to
> > > compress easily... open the bleeder screw so the brake fluid can flow
> > > out. Then try compressing the piston. If the piston compresses and
> > > fluid comes out the bleeder, then you have a problem in the brake line
> > > or hose, that is restricting the flow of the brake fluid. Odds are
its
> > > a hose - they fail more frequently than other possible causes. (valve
> > > blocks, brake line (metal) etc.
> > >
> > > --
> > > Terrible Tom -- AIM & Yahoo Name: SilverEightynine
> > > http://members.aol.com/silvereightynine/
> > >
> >
> >
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