PoohDog629@aol.com wrote:
: OK, I really appreciate all the great info you guys are giving me. I have the 7 prong, as stated, but some other people that have this same trailer are saying that I don't have to have a separate brake controller in the cab.
Hmmm, that doesn't sound right to me. Is your trailer equipped with electric
brakes, or are they surge brakes? If they are surge brakes, then it is true that
you don't need an in-cab brake controller. However, if they are electric brakes,
you definitely do need an in-cab brake controller *unless* the trailer itself
has some sort of built-in inertia based brake controller. I've never heard of
a trailer like that, but I suppose it is possible. I would recommend asking
the people who are telling you you don't need a brake controller to explain
exactly why you don't need one. (Ask them what is controlling the electric
trailer brakes, if it isn't an in-cab controller.)
:My trailer is a Dively model Flatbed ET15. The GVW on the trailer is 7000 lbs. My hitch says weight distributed 7500lbs. and weight carrying 5000 lbs. First question, how do I distribute the weight to get the most carrying capacity?
A weight distributing hitch is a system that uses a special receiver bar
along with torsion bars; basically, it takes some of the weight off of the
rear wheels of the tow vehicle and transfers it to the front wheels. Your
hitch is telling you that if you use a system like that, you can tow a trailer
up to 7500lbs, otherwise if you are just using a standard receiver bar without
the weight distributing system, you can tow a trailer up to 5,000 lbs. So,
that's what the two different numbers on your hitch are for - wether or not
you are using a weight distribution type connection, it doesn't have anything
to do with how the weight is actually distributed on the trailer.
Speaking of weight distribution on the trailer though, you will almost
certainly want to load the car facing forwards. Ideally, you want the
load to be centered just forward of the trailer's wheels. If you were
to back the car on, chances are that the center of weight (due to the engine)
would be behind the trailer's wheels; the trailer would be back heavy, and
would create a very dangerous towing situation. Keep the weight forward of
the trailer's wheels, while also keeping in mind the max tongue weight rating
on your hitch. (The further forward the weight, the heavier the tongue of
the trailer.)
:According to my manual, the gross combined weight rating for my truck is 9200 lbs. My Camaro weighs approximately 3700 lbs. and my trailer weighs in at 1350 lbs.The tongue weight on the hitch is either 500 or 700lbs. depending on if it is distributed.
Once again, that is referring to wether or not you are using a weight
distribution style hitch. The tongue weight can be 700lbs with the special
hitch, or if you are using a standard receiver bar, the max is 500lbs.
(However, unless you have access to a scale, chances are you won't be able
to determine your actual tongue weight; you'll probably just have to estimate
as best you can.
:My second and main question is, am I safe to tow my car with my truck?
Sounds to me like you will be OK. The trailer and car combined will
be 5050lbs. As long as your Dak is 4150lbs or less, you will be able
to stay under your max GCVWR. Note that if you are using a non-weight
distributing style hitch, you are actually 50lbs over your hitch's rating,
and depending on the weight of your Dak, you might end up going over the
GCVWR slightly as well. However, I would certainly have no problem
exceeding the weight rating of the hitch by a mere 50lbs, there is a good
safety margin built into all of this stuff. Just make sure to load the
trailer with the weight distributed forward of the wheels, use the proper
raised or dropped receiver bar to keep the trailer level or slightly
nose-down (nose-up will make for an unstable ride), drive smart, carefully,
and above all, smoothly (no sudden changes), and you should be fine. (Note
that as far as exceeding the ratings of the hitch and truck go, what
is safe is not necessarily legal. If you were in an accident or were
called into question, there may be civil or criminal penalties for
exceeding the rated capacity of your equipment, even if it is still
technically safe. The laws of the land and the laws of physics do
not always agree.) :-)
As long as I am on the subject, just a couple of driving tips - if
the trailer is loaded and connected properly and is in good repair,
it should track just fine. However, at some point it may start to
sway or porpise. Sometimes these conditions can be set up by wind,
road conditions, or a sudden steering correction or accelleration/
decelleration. Usually these effects are temporary, but you don't
want to exaserbate the situation; it is definitely possible for the tail
to "wag the dog" if you let it get out of hand. With some towing
experience, you will know what to do in a given situation, but here
are some guidelines... Usually, if you do nothing, the problem will
quickly correct itself, especially if it was a result of something
like a sudden lane change. However, if it looks like it is starting
to get worse and you want to do something to prevent it from getting
out of hand, resist the urge to hit the brakes. The best thing to
do is to *very* smoothly, let up on the gas. If you are using an
in-cab electric trailer brake controller which has a lever on it that
allows you to activate the trailer brakes, you can use it to ease on
the trailer brakes and bring it back in-line, without using the brakes
on the tow vehicle. In some situations, an application of throttle
will have the same effect. However, if the throttle doesn't help,
now you are in the same predicament as before, but you're going faster.
Applying the trailer brakes has the same net effect without the
resultant speed increae. (This is an important reason to mount the
electric trailer brake controller where you can quickly reach it from
the driver's seat.)
I have towed enclosed and open trailers ranging from ~500 to ~6,000
pounds many times with my '96 Dak, and it has always performed
flawlessly. The Dakota is a very good tow vehicle as long as you stay
reasonably within its limits, take the proper precautions and drive
safely. I would have no qualms with towing the amount of weight you
are considering behind my Dak, across town or across the country.
--
-Jon-
.-- Jon Steiger ---- jon@dakota-truck.net or jon@jonsteiger.com --.
| 1970 Barracuda - 1990 Dakota 'vert - 1992 Ram 4x4 - 1996 Dakota |
| 1996 Intruder 1400 - 1996 Kolb FireFly - 2001 Ram QC 3500 CTD |
`------------------------------------ http://www.jonsteiger.com --'
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