I use the torch-and-hammer method. Do it with a small portable propane
torch. The kind plumbers use for sweating copper pipe. Cast iron and
steel have nothing to fear from a lil' ol' propane torch.
Tim
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net
[mailto:owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net] On Behalf Of Josh
Battles
Sent: Sunday, October 17, 2004 12:22 AM
To: dakota-truck-moderator@bent.twistedbits.net
Subject: Re: DML: Re: Re: RE: Pressing out U-Joints??
> I don't know if this did more harm than good, but it did work. I saw
a guy
> at a transmission shop use a blow-torch to heat the end of the drive
shaft.
> Once the metal was heated (not enough to warp it I don't think), but
just
> enough to get it hot, he just tapped it with a regular nail hammer a
couple
> of times and it came out like it was packed at the factory with
butter.
>
> I was glad that it wasn't my car, but the guy was working it like it
had
> done it countless times. And, it did work.
The only issue with this is that by heating, you can change various
properties of the metal. You can possibly remove any tempering that was
done to the material in the past.
We learned about this last month in my metallurgy class. If you're
really interested, I can explain what it does on a molecular or
crystalline level.
-- - Josh Lowered 2000 Dakota CC 3.9L Above Statement Not True ^^^^^ www.omg-stfu.com
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