Normally, you install the plugs into the ports, connect some lines to the
plugs and run them into the cylinders, fill the cylinders, and pump the
piston until no more air bubbles come out (make sure it is level though).
- Bernd
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net
[mailto:owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net] On Behalf Of TerribleTom
Sent: Tuesday, April 12, 2005 1:51 AM
To: dakota-truck-moderator@bent.twistedbits.net
Subject: Re: DML: Bench Bleeding Master Cylinder
TerribleTom wrote:
>
> Hiyas everyone - gotta quick question here.
>
> Just finished yanking the power booster and master cyl on Christine.
> The booster blew a few months ago and I figured I would replace the
> master cyl at the same time. The booster and master cyl came as an
> assembly which was handy.
>
> The instructions that came with it say "new and improved master cyl
> bench bleeding procedure". Basically says to install the port plugs
> in the output line ports, keep the cyl level (very important they
> say), fill up the reservoir, and slowly press in and release the
> cylinder piston using 3/4 to 1 inch strokes. Never to stroke more than
one inch.
> Repeating this prodecure until movement is "firm and less than 1/8th
inch".
>
> According to the FSM - you should use a traditional method with hoses
> connected to the output lines and up into the reservoir to allow the
> air out - umm - how can the air be bled out if the ports are plugged?
>
> Hrrm - never done this before, so watcha think I should do?
>
Forgot to mention that the "bleeder kit" cam with those two plugs only.
Nothing else that you would see in a traditional bleeder kit (tubes and
threaded fittings) this is why I'm not sure what to do. I don't have
anything handy that I could use in that manner. I'd probably have to pick up
some fittings and clear tube to fashion a bleeder kit.
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