Re: Ball Joint and shock replacement problems...

From: Terrible Tom (SilverEightynine@aol.com)
Date: Wed Mar 01 2006 - 01:02:00 EST


Eric Hufstedler wrote:
>>You could probably break the axle nut loose with the wheel still
>>on the ground actually.
>>
>>I wouldn't think it necessary. Why not just unbolt the joint at
>>the knuckle and drop the lower the control arm a little? You
>>could wedge a block of wood under the upper arm so that the
>>spring tension would even do the seperation for you.
>
>
> Wouldn't that be possibly explosive?
>
> Eric

I came into this thread late otherwise I woulda popped up and said
something. You DO NOT want to mess with the control arm bolts while the
torsion bar is in place and under load. Even with the suspension at
full drop - the torsion bar is still loaded.

You don't need to go to that extreme. Simple solution here...Assuming
you have the caliper and rotor off, put them back on. Just hand tighten
the lugnuts and caliper bolts - to keep everything stationary on the
knuckle.

Your rotors should be vented discs. The calipers on mine have a hole in
the center for viewing pad thickness - as I'm sure yours do to. If I
need to unbolt the axleshaft nut after the wheel is pulled - just drop a
screw driver or other stiff tool into the vanes on the vented rotor
THROUGH the hole in the center of the caliper - to act as a stop. I've
done this countless times - never broken anything - works like a charm,
keeps the axle and hub from turning to let you take the axleshaft nut off.

If you are not sure what I mean - let me know - I happen to have the
wheels off my Gen II and I can easily snap a pic for ya to show what I'm
talking about.

-- 
-------------------------------------------------------------
Rocks are for skipping... I'm all about the mud
75 Honda CL360, 89 Dakota, 89 Dakota 4x4,
95 Dakota 4x4, 96 Neon, 01 Ram 4x4
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AIM & Yahoo: SilverEightynine

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