Re: Replacing the rear pinion.

From: david.clement@verizon.net
Date: Mon Mar 06 2006 - 16:02:13 EST


I rebuilt an 8 1/4 for my 68 Barracuda and went from 3.23 to 3.55 gears. It is
not hard other than the amount of torque it takes to crush the crush sleeve but
it does require some specialty tools that most folks do not have in their tool
box. If you take your time and pay attention there is no reason you can't do
it.

The specialty tools are:
1. An in-lb torque wrench (not to be mistaken for the typical ft-lb torque
wrench that most folks have and is also needed) is required to set the bearing
preload on the pinion. You need and there is no way around it.

2. Dial indicator to measure the back lash between the pinion and ring. You
need and there is no way around it.

3. A tool that allows you to reach in from the end of the axle tube and engage
the side adjuster so you can set the carrier preload. An old torsion bar will
work or you can fab something up with some rod and large nuts.

4. A press or a selection of pipes that you can use to press or tap on the
bearings. NOTE: if you are replacing the bearings on the carrier the easiest
way to get the old one off is to cut the race at 180 degrees and then use a
cold chisel to split it.

There are three ways to set the pinion depth;
   a. The trial and error method where you keep putting the rear end to gether
and look at the gear pattern. Then take it apart until you get the shim pack
right. To do this you need to invest the $40 or so bucks for a set up bearing
that will slide on an off the pinion.

   b. The pinion depth from the center line of the carrier to the top of the
pion is stamped on the pinion. If you can beg borrow the tool that allows you
to measure this then you can set the pinion without assembling the entire rear
end. You will still need the set-up bearing so you can adjust the shim pack to
this correct dimension.

  c. If you purchase the gear set from mopar it will be marked with numbers
like +1 or -3. When you remove the exisitng one it will be marked similarly. If
the new one is +2 and the one you have is +3 then you just remove 0.001" worth
of shims from the shim pack and you are good to go.

Once you get the depth set, install the seal, put the bearings on with the
crush sleeve in between, slip on the yoke and torque nut the nut until the
sleeve start to crush. Keep checking with the in-lb torque wrench for the force
required to turn the pinion and stop tightening the nut when the pre-load value
in in-lbs is reached.

Backlash is easy, just tighten one side adjuster and loosen the other to move
the carrier side to side until you have the backlash within in spec. This is
where you use the dial indicator on the ring gear teeth to make you back lash
measurement.

The carrier bearing pre-load is adjusted by tightening the side adjusters from
the end of the axle with the tool and a troque wrench. You need to sneak up on
this so your backlash stays in spec.

The easiest way to do this is with the axle on the bench but it can be done in
the truck but it will be slower going.

Dave Clement
99 SLT+ CC 4x4

In article <440B89C0.1030402@aol.com>, SilverEightynine@aol.com (Terrible Tom)
writes:
>
>
> evening folks - I'm wondering if its just as big a pain in the ass as I
> suspet it is - to replace the rear pinion. I have the spare parts to
> put the busted axle in my 95, back together again... but I've been
> reading up in the FSM and the procedure to get the teeth to mesh
> properly - seems like a real pain.
>
> Anyone done this before and feel like giving me a few tips? I'm going
> to have to rebuilt the whole axle: bearings, seals, ring, pinion,
> carrier etc
>
> --
> -------------------------------------------------------------
> Rocks are for skipping... I'm all about the mud
> 75 Honda CL360, 89 Dakota, 89 Dakota 4x4,
> 95 Dakota 4x4, 96 Neon, 01 Ram 4x4
> http://members.aol.com/silvereightynine/
> AIM & Yahoo: SilverEightynine
>
> .
> .
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>
.
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