jon@dakota-truck.net wrote:
> Barry Oliver <barrysuperhawk@insightbb.com> wrote:
>
> : jon@dakota-truck.net wrote:
> :> Did I mention that I hate bleeding brakes? :-)
> :> Hey, if anybody has any easier ways to do it, I am all ears! :-)
> :>
> :>
>
> : Ok, Mr Ears, try this:
> : Gravity is your friend... put 4 tubes, one on each bleeder, with the
> : other ends taped into into 4 old pop cans/bottles. Crack all four open,
> : then gently open the MC. Look back every 5-10 minutes or so and keep
> : the MC full. After 30-40 minutes you will have added about a pint of
> : brake fluid, and not only will your brakes be bubble free, they will
> : have new juice...
>
>
> Interesting. Gravity bleeding was mentioned earlier, but I
> hadn't thought about doing all four at the same time. :-)
> Something that I wonder about with this method though; don't you
> need some suction or pressure to convince the air bubbles to leave
> the high spots in the brake lines? What I'm wondering is say
> for example where a brake line runs along the rear axle,
> then goes up over the top of the diff, then back down to run
> along the axle tube towards the drum. If there is air in the
> section that goes up over the axle, I would think that the air
> bubbles would sit up at the top there. Is gravity bleeding
> sufficiently persuasive enough to convince those bubbles to
> travel downwards towards the bleeder?
>
>
In my experience, yes. Unless you have your car parked on your hill, it
will work. The bubbles don't travel up, they are pushed out by the
weight of the fluid in the MC, that is why you open everything, and make
sure you have good catch recepticals. Actually, parking the front end
on ramps does speed the process a bit, but you have to be more careful
about keeping the MC full. Time is the only downside to this method.
That, and I am told that it dosen't work as well on vehicles with large
bore brakelines, but I have no actual experience with that.
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Sun Oct 01 2006 - 01:35:53 EDT