That's the Cam sensor harness - yes, that can easily cause a BUS short.
Honestly, you don't have to have it on any specific cylinder. Just mark the
position of the rotor on the outer edge of the distributor with a black
marker (Sharpee's work well) and just make sure you put it back in with the
rotor pointing the same way. As long as you don't crank the engine while
it's out...you'll be fine. We do it like this all the time without any
issues - even the fuel sync stays correct.
- Bernd
-----Original Message-----
From: DAKSY [mailto:rsmith13@nycap.rr.com]
Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2007 7:16 PM
To: dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net
Subject: DML: Re: RE: ARRRRRRRRGHH!
Hey, Bernd...
<> Remove the distributor and freeze the bolt area with a can of compressed
air (Radio Shack or any computer shop will carry this - even WalMart). Just
flip the bottle upside down and spray...the propellant will "freeze" the
area, shrinking the metal enough (hopefully) to loosen the screw. I've used
tweezers to remove broken distributor screws, throttle body screws (Jeep
4.0L's are notorious for breaking at the TPS bolts), and other small sheared
bolts.<>
OK. Thx...I was reading the Bible & the removal looks fairly
straightforward, once I get #1 cylinder to TDC...
While I was messing around back there, I DID notice a bare wire in the
socket that plugs in to the area to the passenger side of the
distributor...Could that be what was triggering the "Bus" MIL a couple of
weeks back?
Bob (DAKSY) Smith
DAKSY2K on AIM
2K SY Dakota Sport +
V-6 4 x 4 5 speed
2K05 HD 883C YP
http://home.nycap.rr.com/daksy/
Averill Park, NY
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