Doesn't have to specifically be beeswax. Regular wax used for canning (parrafin) will work as well. Oh, and it does work. Used it many times when penetrating oil (PB) didn't work.
----- Original Message ----
From: "jon@dakota-truck.net" <jon@dakota-truck.net>
To: dakota-truck-moderator@bent.twistedbits.net
Sent: Wednesday, October 3, 2007 12:36:41 AM
Subject: Re: DML: Anybody subscribe to Machinist's Work Shop?
David Gersic <info@zaccaria-pinball.com> wrote:
> http://mmd.foxtail.com/Archives/Digests/200708/2007.08.28.01.html
> Penetrating oil test. Never heard of using Acetone + ATF as a rust penetrator
> before. Cheap, though, and if it works that well it might be worth a try.
There's an older gentleman who lives down the road who is a
friend of the family, and he swears by beeswax. He works at a local
hardware store and is one of those types that you can tell has decades
of experience under his belt. He relayed a stuck bolt solution to my
father just the other day. Apparently the procedure is to heat up the
bolt, but only a little bit. You just want to get it hot enough to
melt the beeswax, and no more. Put the beeswax on there and it will
wick up into the threads. He claims that you can often remove the
bolt by hand.
I haven't had an opportunity to try that out yet, but it seemed
appropriate to the topic so I thought I'd share. :-) I have
struggled with many a stubborn, stuck part and I've never heard of a
procedure that works so well that you can practically remove it by
hand, so I'm naturally sceptical, but figure its worth a try. If
anyone happens to try this one out before I do, (or if you've tried it
already) please let me know how it works out. :-)
The hardest part will probably be figuring out just where to find
beeswax. :-) A craft store / candle shop maybe?
--
-Jon-
.- Jon Steiger -- jon@dakota-truck.net or jon@jonsteiger.com -.
| '96 Kolb Firefly, '96 Suzuki Intruder, Miscellaneous Mopars |
`-------------------------------- http://www.jonsteiger.com --'
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