Re: Front axle shafts

From: Terrible Tom (silvereightynine@aol.com)
Date: Wed May 28 2008 - 21:07:05 EDT


Jason Bleazard wrote:

> I'm planning on replacing both front axle shafts on my '95 4x4.
>
> First, how important is it to also replace the spindle nuts?

Eh I had the spindle nuts off Christines axles lots of times and never
replaced em. I know its a good idea to do that - and for some styles
its required, like those that dont use a cotter pin (pinch nuts).

Lets just say that for the small cost associated with them, its a good
idea. However it may be a moot issue - I have not seen an aftermarket
supplier that did not sell new spindle nuts WITH the axles. If you get
them from AZ - you should get nuts. Infact - make sure they are in the
boxes. Both axleshafts should be the same part number left/right.

I tried to
> change those when we (meaning Jon) changed the hubs last year. The parts
> AutoZone had listed weren't right, so I just put the old ones back on.

Not a crime.

>
> Second, AutoZone's web site is telling me that along with the axle shafts,
> "Engine alignment is critical for this application. Strongly suggest
> replacement of motor mounts." How true is this?

For some applications it is true. However that footnote is in EVERY
lookup for axles for autozone. Its their standard "tack this on to get
another sale" tatic. The drivers side motor mount can have an effect,
because that side is tied together with an
engine/transmission/differential brace. Christines original motormouts
were still good when I pulled the premag engine - but I think you have
more miles on your truck - so they probably have more wear. I would not
worry about changing then unless you KNOW they are bad. You can hear a
clunk or visually see one is busted.

The CV axle swap is a very simple procedure. Loosen the lug nuts and
spindle nuts while on the ground... raise truck, remove wheels, wedge a
screwdriver or prybar in the vents of the rotors (through the hole in
the top of the caliper between the pads) to keep the axle from rotating,
undo the 6 bolts on the inboard flange. Should be a 9/16's hex. Let the
flanged side drop down a little and pull the axle shaft out of the hub
splines. Be careful not to let it extend or hang too far or it will
come apart. Not too big a deal if you are replacing, them but sometimes
parts stores deduct for beat up cores.

Reverse procedure to install.

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