No control valve was ever installed on the '97" Daks. Coolant flows through
the heater core any time the motor is running. Many guys either put in a
manual shut off valve, or bypass the heater core during the summer.
As for the radiator drain, if you only turned it 1/4 turn, then you didn't
have it open. You turn it the 1/4 and it feels like it stops, but then you
need to pull out and turn it another 1/4 turn to "open" the valve. It
should pull out about 1/2 inch. Pull too hard and it will come all the way
out and possibly damage it. I usually have to use a pair of pliers to get
it the final 1/4 turn to the open position.
brian cropp
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net
[mailto:owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net] On Behalf Of Tom Coulter
Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2009 2:39 PM
To: dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net
Subject: DML: 2 questions about heater/radiator
Importance: High
This is for the '97 Dakota Sport 2WD
Heater:
Does anybody know for a fact whether the control knob/key position actuates
a solenoid valve, etc. to allow hot water to flow/not flow thru the heater
core? Something inside me says there should be such a control. Otherwise,
when driving thru Death Valley in August, even though the AC is turned on,
hot water is circulating under the dash board! On the other hand, when I
recently isolated and flushed said heater core, I could find no such
position of control knob/ key position that seemed to prevent water from
circulating thru the core. In other words, once I got it flushed out, water
flowed through it no matter what the position of any knob/switches (and
whether the ignition key was on or removed).
Radiator:
Along with my heater core clogging, it turned out that the radiator drain
valve was also clogged - so much that nary a drop would drain out when
"opened". When I looked at the valve, the "rib" on the plastic knob was
vertical. It would only turn counterclockwise 1/4 of a turn, where it
seemed to hit a stop. I presume this horizontal position of the rib is the
open position. Does anybody know of a physical trick that can be done to
clear out the drain valve? I tried fishing a small wire up in the valve
opening (it's hard to get to), but no luck.
Any help is appreciated.
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Coulter" <Metalshop@optonline.net>
To: <dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 27, 2009 5:01 PM
Subject: Cloggged heater core - ThroFlush to the rescue?
>A couple years ago I lost virtually all heating. My heater core is toast
>and this was no doubt due to my lame failure to ever flush my coolant.
>This even contributed to my water pump failing (bearings/seals) at about 8
>years (57590 miles).
>
> So - what to do about the clogged heater core? I'm sure many of you know
> what's involved in removing it from the Dakota so let's not even go there.
> In exploring/searching/surfing the 'net, I stumbled onto what I believe
> may be the very next best thing:
>
> Thoro Flush by Irontite (Kwik-way):
>
http://www.irontite.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=4
&zen-
> id=1ca29354381138950675c2b8b7603f95
>
> According to its manufacturer, this industrial strength product has been
> successfully used on diesels and heavy duty trucks. The one-pint jar is
> actually a powder which is mixed on-site to the recommended specs (using
> very hot water). You then isolate the heater core by
> cutting/disconnecting the feeder hoses and - with the heater turned ON -
> circulating the Thoro Flush solution in a back flush direction for about
> 10 minutes or so. It's supposed to work miracles ...
>
> This may be the only "solution" to this problem, short of the miserable
> task of removing the core from under the dash.
>
> Has anyone ever heard of/used Thoro Flush?
>
> Tommy
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