ffastje wrote:
>
> Michael Maskalans wrote:
>>
>>
>> On Aug 11, 2009, at 12:40 , ffastje wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> The factory manual says to use two pry bars against the diff
>>> houseing to remove the cv from the axel shaft. Do i have to remove
>>> the the bolts from the flange to remove the cv. The dam cv keeps
>>> spinning when i try to remove the bolts and it pissing me off!!!
>>> :-[
>>
>> If yours is the (my term:) "normal" kind with the flange with 6 bolts
>> at the flange hanging off the center section, yes those bolts need to
>> be pulled. you can probably jam it with a wrench on one of the bolts
>> while breaking others free. I'd use a pipe wrench on the axle shaft
>> as a last resort. You did break the hub nut free while the tire was
>> still on the ground, right? if you don't have air to break these free
>> you'll never get that off without the tire holding it. You're looking
>> at at least 200 pound feet to break that mother free. I think torque
>> spec is 165 ft-lbs.
>>
>> Mike
>>
>>
> Mike thanks for the reply yes i did break the hub nut with tire on the
> ground. I thought i could do the pry bar thing . guess not. So ill put
> it all back together and break all those bolts loose first .Tried
> holding it with a wrench and using air lets just say I'm 1 wrench
> short now.
> Pipe wrench would work but i'll just put it back together those bolts
> are on there good.
>
So I got the freaking drive shaft out after putting every thing back
together. Busted the wheel on the aluminum racing jack. 'bummer' >:o .
So tomorrow ill start on the ball joints . Lets hope it goes better than
today. Why didn't i start learning this stuff earlier in life so i could
just pay some one else?
-- ffastje@cox.net ffastje@gmail.com 1999 dakota cc 3.9L 4X4 63,106 miles
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