Where in FL you heading? I'm in Dothan on the way through; and until this
mornign was working at the Dodge dealership just over the state line.
You wouldn't happen to have a couple of spare parts.. such as a crank pully
(was bent when installed..motor was from totalled truck) or a spare ac
compressor (My bearings are going out and it's been whining pretty bad for
months)
IF anything going wrong.. feel free to call for assistance.. I'll do
whatever I can to help.. 334-701-3239
Aaron Wyse
----- Original Message -----
From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11@mchsi.com>
To: <dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net>
Sent: Monday, February 22, 2010 10:26 PM
Subject: DML: Experiences, thoughts, and observations
>
> Vehicle::: 1995 Extended cab Dakota 2wd V8(5.2),auto
> (A518/46RH). 350,000+ miles.. All power and A/C.
> Facts:: About 5 years ago I cooked the engine on more than one occasion
> before I finally found a radiator that would keep it cool.
> All the seals were brittle and the valve seals were all in the oil
> pan. This past summer it started using oil very rapidly(not leaking - it
> was already leaking everywhere). I decided that I wanted a bit more power
> so I opted to install a 5.9. I found one
> in a salvage yard in Birmingham that I thought met the criteria I set, so
> I purchased it.. It was from a '95 Ram 3500. I purchased aftermarket
> heads from a place in Atlanta. Nothing HiPo, just basic heads. Vatted
> the block, new cam bearings, decked the block just to make sure it was
> flat then a basic rebuild. Did not require a bore and oversized pistons.
> New Cam/lifters - again just basically a stock cam.
>
> FYI:: The '95 5.2 is internally balanced - The '95 5.9 is external.
> If you plan such a transplant, the '96 5.9 is internally balanced,
> so you could use the 5.2 torque converter. I had to purchase a new one.
> I found no differences in the intakes or throttlebodies. I'm running a PCM
> for a 5.9 Ram that the p/n starts with a P.
> I think it is a MOPAR reprogrammed unit but can't remember.
> Other than the oil pan catastrophe & the wiring and vacuum lines
> nightmare, all went rather well. Anyone know of anything I should watch
> out for??
>
> Rebuilt tranny @ same time and installed a Transgo shift kit.
> (tranny was in excellent shape - could have gotten away with just new
> seals everywhere and 2 spacers(shims)).
>
> The Ram 3500 5.9 oil pan will not fit the Dakota chassis.. It is roughly
> 2" too long in the deep part. (Ask me how I know). Pulled it back out(it
> was still on the crane) and installed the Oilpan from the 5.2. Bolted
> right up. Looked good. Installed it into the chassis & bolted it up to the
> tranny.. All is well.. Finally got all the Electricals and vacuums
> hooked back up and wouldn't hit a lick... Cranked - checked all
> electricals and vacuums - cranked - threw a few tools - No codes stored by
> the Ign on-off 3 cycles except a 12 which is a battery disconnect.. Well
> DUH!! Slept on it. Read and reread the darn Service Manual. Finally
> went thru the Setup for initial timing again(Vibration damper perfectly
> aligned @ 0* and the rotor button dead on the #1 mark on the cam sensor
> plate). (I initially timed it on 6* BTC) The Darn thing cranked - Had a
> knock - ever so slight, but nevertheless a knock. Pulled it back out(next
> day) and started rechecking Rod bearing clearances
> (a real PITA) using plastigauge. Got the front 4 checked and decided to
> clean up the oil pan for reinstall. There is a "Tunnel" down the pass
> side of the oil pan that is a guide to get the dipstick from the front of
> the engine to the rear where the pan is deepest. Well duh!! There is one
> very small bright spot on that tunnel right @ the entrance for the
> dipstick.. After much obversation & measuring it is perfectly aligned
> with the rodbolts on # 1 rod... Just a touch with a smasll diegrinder got
> rid of the knock. Cleaned up the pan and the block and reinstalled it on
> the engine and reinstalled the engine in the chassis.. Went thru all the
> electricals and vacuums again and rechecked them before I even tried to
> crank it. fired right up - no knock. Hooray!! (That knock would have gone
> away in short order, but I would have never trusted it had I not torn it
> back down far enough to find the problem, so I'm not griping about that.
> Just stating my frustrations.) It runs great
> but has left me stranded on 2 seperate occasions since. Once 3 miles from
> the house and once @ the house(basically). Still no codes. I've checked
> the coil and the crank position sensor by the test methods given in the
> Service Manual. All check out as good. Hasn't died on me for over a week
> now, but I'm frustrated to say the least. I have to go to Floride the
> 15th of March and I plan to drive this truck.. Should I take out towing
> insurance???
> Any and all suggestions considered and appreciated......
> Couple of Q's:: Tranny designation 46RH - what does the R stand for??
> The H is Hydraulic(I think)..
>
> When did the A618 go into production and what is the main difference
> between it & the A518????
>
> "Except For Ending Slavery, Fascism, Nazism and Communism, WAR has Never
> Solved Anything."
>
> Azie
>
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