tensioner pulley

From: $pook (richardfiser@mchsi.com)
Date: Sun Aug 12 2012 - 14:26:22 EDT


On 8/11/2012 11:00 PM, DML Digest wrote:
> DML Digest Sunday, August 12 2012 Volume 05 : Number 4610
>
>
>
> The subjects discussed in this digest are:
> ==========
> RE: DML: water pump ?'s
> Re: DML: water pump ?'s
> Re: DML: water pump ?'s
> Re: DML: water pump ?'s
> Re: DML: water pump ?'s
> DML: Dumb remark
> RE: DML: water pump ?'s
> RE: DML: Re: new political blog?
> Re: DML: water pump ?'s
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2012 00:08:36 -0400
> From: "Jim" <conv442@earthlink.net>
> Subject: RE: DML: water pump ?'s
>
> first off when u get the new one make sure it includes the bypass pipe
> (black steel press fit, electrolytically welded to the Al pump body)
>
> break the fan free b4 u pull the serp belt
>
> can be R&Red with the shroud in place
>
> there is another hose nipple that needs to be with the new pump can't recall
> if it's input or output
>
> have to move the alt and AC compressor out of the way, no need to break the
> AC hoses
>
> depending on mileage your truck is old enough that the timing chain
> tensioner may be suspect so timing set replacement may be a good might as
> well......not sure on the year they changed the parts....
>
> Jim
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2012 08:37:40 -0500
> From: David Gersic <info@zaccaria-pinball.com>
> Subject: Re: DML: water pump ?'s
>
> On Friday, August 10, 2012 09:17:19 PM you wrote:
>> Well here I am again asking the great people of the DML for there great
>> advise. I am sure its the water pump but a few symptoms first thought it
>> was a bearing on one of the pulleys.
>> the sound of dry bearing getting ready to go was going to find it in the
>> morning but get home with my son for some dinner and coolant is flowing
>> out from under the truck at the front where
>> the water pump would be.
> Sounds like the same symptoms I had in the spring. Yep, it was the water pump.
> Mine's a 2001, so may not be identical to yours.
>
>
>> So if that sounds like the water pump is there
>> any tricks I should know.
>> The truck is a 1999 Dakota 3.9 with about 78000 miles. Thanks again for
>> y'all being here and any help would be appreciated.
> On mine, the serpentine belt didn't provide enough grip to break the pulley
> bolts loose. I made a tool from some 3/4" iron bar stock and a couple of
> 1/4x20 bolts to fit the holes in the front of the pulley, so it could be held
> in place.
>
> Other than that, it's pretty straightforward. Drain the radiator. Remove the
> shroud. Remove the hoses. Remove the various bolts holding the pump. Remove
> the pump. I didn't touch the alternator or A/C compressor. Installation is, of
> course, the reverse of the removal steps, plus cleaning up the mess.
>
> While you're at it, you might as well replace the serpentine belt, pulley, and
> tensioner.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2012 08:40:38 -0500
> From: David Gersic <info@zaccaria-pinball.com>
> Subject: Re: DML: water pump ?'s
>
> On Friday, August 10, 2012 11:08:36 PM you wrote:
>> first off when u get the new one make sure it includes the bypass pipe
>> (black steel press fit, electrolytically welded to the Al pump body)
> On mine, that was a separate part from the parts store. Yes, get a new one of
> those too while you're at it.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2012 09:41:11 -0500
> From: Francis Fastje <ffastje@cox.net>
> Subject: Re: DML: water pump ?'s
>
> On 8/11/2012 8:37 AM, David Gersic wrote:
>> On Friday, August 10, 2012 09:17:19 PM you wrote:
>>> Well here I am again asking the great people of the DML for there great
>>> advise. I am sure its the water pump but a few symptoms first thought it
>>> was a bearing on one of the pulleys.
>>> the sound of dry bearing getting ready to go was going to find it in the
>>> morning but get home with my son for some dinner and coolant is flowing
>>> out from under the truck at the front where
>>> the water pump would be.
>> Sounds like the same symptoms I had in the spring. Yep, it was the water pump.
>> Mine's a 2001, so may not be identical to yours.
>>
>>
>>> So if that sounds like the water pump is there
>>> any tricks I should know.
>>> The truck is a 1999 Dakota 3.9 with about 78000 miles. Thanks again for
>>> y'all being here and any help would be appreciated.
>> On mine, the serpentine belt didn't provide enough grip to break the pulley
>> bolts loose. I made a tool from some 3/4" iron bar stock and a couple of
>> 1/4x20 bolts to fit the holes in the front of the pulley, so it could be held
>> in place.
>>
>> Other than that, it's pretty straightforward. Drain the radiator. Remove the
>> shroud. Remove the hoses. Remove the various bolts holding the pump. Remove
>> the pump. I didn't touch the alternator or A/C compressor. Installation is, of
>> course, the reverse of the removal steps, plus cleaning up the mess.
>>
>> While you're at it, you might as well replace the serpentine belt, pulley, and
>> tensioner.
>>
>>
>>
> When facing the truck does the fan bolt turn to the drivers side or the
> passengers side to loosen?
> Sorry for such a dumb question.
>
>
> - --
> Francis Fastje
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2012 10:12:18 -0500
> From: David Gersic <info@zaccaria-pinball.com>
> Subject: Re: DML: water pump ?'s
>
> On Saturday, August 11, 2012 09:41:11 AM you wrote:
>> When facing the truck does the fan bolt turn to the drivers side or the
>> passengers side to loosen?
> On mine, it's a normal right-hand thread, so CW to tighten, CCW to loosen. If
> you buy the replacement pump first, you can check the threads on that to be
> sure.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2012 10:52:02 -0500
> From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11@mchsi.com>
> Subject: DML: Dumb remark
>
> Call it dumb U like, but I'd rather have a robber as a man that supports
> abortions & same sex marriagees!!!!
>
> Apparently I'm supposed to be more angry
> about what Mitt Romney does with HIS money
> than I am about what Obama does with MINE??
>
> Azie
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2012 10:56:09 -0500
> From: Josh Battles <cletusjones@gmail.com>
> Subject: RE: DML: water pump ?'s
>
> On Aug 10, 2012 11:09 PM, "Jim" <conv442@earthlink.net> wrote:
>>
>> first off when u get the new one make sure it includes the bypass pipe
>> (black steel press fit, electrolytically welded to the Al pump body)
> The one I used had the tube as a separate part number, there was an oring
> on the tube to seal it, was just press fit. Be sure to replace that oring
> or it will leak. I would also recommend getting a new pump over reman,
> there's usually less issues, I've gotten a few bad remans before.
>
> I don't remember for sure but I feel like there's a small rubber line that
> goes from the top of the pump to up near the intake manifold, but that
> might be for the 318, I don't remember.
>
>> break the fan free b4 u pull the serp belt
>>
>> can be R&Red with the shroud in place
> Pull the shroud (6 nuts) and remove the pump with the fan attached. Chuck
> the impeller in a bench vise and remove the fan that way, there's plenty of
> clearance to remove it as a unit without the shroud and it's easier than
> trying to stop the pump from turning.
>
>> have to move the alt and AC compressor out of the way, no need to break
> the
>> AC hoses
> No need to touch any of these things, but I would change belts, maybe pop
> for a new tensioner if needed.
>
> Remember to remove all the old gasket so you get a clean surface for the
> new gasket. No sealant should be used, the paper gasket is all you need.
> If it leaks there was a surface prep mistake.
>
> Good luck,
> Josh
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2012 18:18:23 -0500
> From: Barrysuperhawk <barrysuperhawk@comcast.net>
> Subject: RE: DML: Re: new political blog?
>
> Give me any type of a robber or crook in office anyday over the type of social engineering that some are trying to do. When it comes to business if you're not cheating a little bit you're not trying hard enough.
>
> Just to be clear those are philosophical comments not political ones ...
>
>
> Sent from my Samsung smartphone on AT&T
>
> - -------- Original message --------
> Subject: DML: Re: new political blog?
> From: Mike & Sharon Higgins <clearcreek@gobrainstorm.net>
> To: dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net
> CC:
>
>
> I suppose I should provide a comment to Azie's dumb remark about the Robber
> Baron Romney, but I don't give political remarks on the DML.
>
> mike
>
> - ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11@mchsi.com>
> To: <dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net>
> Sent: Friday, August 10, 2012 2:35 PM
> Subject: DML: V6 vs V8 driveline
>
>
>> Can anyone tell me the differences in the (drive lines
>> components) Xfer case, springs & U joints Etc between
>> the V6 & V8 4X4's from say the '92 thru the '96 model
>> years?? I would think the V8 got a bit heavier duty
>> components, but you never know unless you've BTDT..
>>
>> Apparently I'm supposed to be more angry
>> about what Mitt Romney does with HIS money
>> than I am about what Obama does with MINE??
>>
>> Azie
>>
>>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2012 20:24:41 -0500
> From: Francis Fastje <ffastje@cox.net>
> Subject: Re: DML: water pump ?'s
>
> On 8/11/2012 10:56 AM, Josh Battles wrote:
>> On Aug 10, 2012 11:09 PM, "Jim" <conv442@earthlink.net> wrote:
>>> first off when u get the new one make sure it includes the bypass pipe
>>> (black steel press fit, electrolytically welded to the Al pump body)
>> The one I used had the tube as a separate part number, there was an oring
>> on the tube to seal it, was just press fit. Be sure to replace that oring
>> or it will leak. I would also recommend getting a new pump over reman,
>> there's usually less issues, I've gotten a few bad remans before.
>>
>> I don't remember for sure but I feel like there's a small rubber line that
>> goes from the top of the pump to up near the intake manifold, but that
>> might be for the 318, I don't remember.
>>
>>> break the fan free b4 u pull the serp belt
>>>
>>> can be R&Red with the shroud in place
>> Pull the shroud (6 nuts) and remove the pump with the fan attached. Chuck
>> the impeller in a bench vise and remove the fan that way, there's plenty of
>> clearance to remove it as a unit without the shroud and it's easier than
>> trying to stop the pump from turning.
>>
>>> have to move the alt and AC compressor out of the way, no need to break
>> the
>>> AC hoses
>> No need to touch any of these things, but I would change belts, maybe pop
>> for a new tensioner if needed.
>>
>> Remember to remove all the old gasket so you get a clean surface for the
>> new gasket. No sealant should be used, the paper gasket is all you need.
>> If it leaks there was a surface prep mistake.
>>
>> Good luck,
>> Josh
>>
>>
> Thanks everybody for the help its all done.
> Seems to not be leaking. That freaking fan is a pain in the ass.
> Even had the shit tool from the parts store but no spanner wrench.
> Ended up getting it with a pry bar wedged in and a cresent.
>
> - --
> Francis Fastje
>
>
98 Dakota Sport 3.9. I need to change out the alternator but I'm having
trouble with the tensioner. I use a 15mm socket on the center pulley
bolt but instead of the tension being released, the bolt just gets
tighter. I'm afraid I will snap the bolt. Am I not doing something
right? I've never heard of a tensioner freezing up.



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