On 8/12/2012 1:26 PM, $pook wrote:
>
> On 8/11/2012 11:00 PM, DML Digest wrote:
>> DML Digest Sunday, August 12 2012 Volume 05 :
>> Number 4610
>>
>>
>>
>> The subjects discussed in this digest are:
>> ==========
>> RE: DML: water pump ?'s
>> Re: DML: water pump ?'s
>> Re: DML: water pump ?'s
>> Re: DML: water pump ?'s
>> Re: DML: water pump ?'s
>> DML: Dumb remark
>> RE: DML: water pump ?'s
>> RE: DML: Re: new political blog?
>> Re: DML: water pump ?'s
>>
>> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>> Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2012 00:08:36 -0400
>> From: "Jim" <conv442@earthlink.net>
>> Subject: RE: DML: water pump ?'s
>>
>> first off when u get the new one make sure it includes the bypass pipe
>> (black steel press fit, electrolytically welded to the Al pump body)
>>
>> break the fan free b4 u pull the serp belt
>>
>> can be R&Red with the shroud in place
>>
>> there is another hose nipple that needs to be with the new pump can't
>> recall
>> if it's input or output
>>
>> have to move the alt and AC compressor out of the way, no need to
>> break the
>> AC hoses
>>
>> depending on mileage your truck is old enough that the timing chain
>> tensioner may be suspect so timing set replacement may be a good
>> might as
>> well......not sure on the year they changed the parts....
>>
>> Jim
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2012 08:37:40 -0500
>> From: David Gersic <info@zaccaria-pinball.com>
>> Subject: Re: DML: water pump ?'s
>>
>> On Friday, August 10, 2012 09:17:19 PM you wrote:
>>> Well here I am again asking the great people of the DML for there great
>>> advise. I am sure its the water pump but a few symptoms first
>>> thought it
>>> was a bearing on one of the pulleys.
>>> the sound of dry bearing getting ready to go was going to find it in
>>> the
>>> morning but get home with my son for some dinner and coolant is flowing
>>> out from under the truck at the front where
>>> the water pump would be.
>> Sounds like the same symptoms I had in the spring. Yep, it was the
>> water pump.
>> Mine's a 2001, so may not be identical to yours.
>>
>>
>>> So if that sounds like the water pump is there
>>> any tricks I should know.
>>> The truck is a 1999 Dakota 3.9 with about 78000 miles. Thanks again
>>> for
>>> y'all being here and any help would be appreciated.
>> On mine, the serpentine belt didn't provide enough grip to break the
>> pulley
>> bolts loose. I made a tool from some 3/4" iron bar stock and a couple of
>> 1/4x20 bolts to fit the holes in the front of the pulley, so it could
>> be held
>> in place.
>>
>> Other than that, it's pretty straightforward. Drain the radiator.
>> Remove the
>> shroud. Remove the hoses. Remove the various bolts holding the pump.
>> Remove
>> the pump. I didn't touch the alternator or A/C compressor.
>> Installation is, of
>> course, the reverse of the removal steps, plus cleaning up the mess.
>>
>> While you're at it, you might as well replace the serpentine belt,
>> pulley, and
>> tensioner.
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2012 08:40:38 -0500
>> From: David Gersic <info@zaccaria-pinball.com>
>> Subject: Re: DML: water pump ?'s
>>
>> On Friday, August 10, 2012 11:08:36 PM you wrote:
>>> first off when u get the new one make sure it includes the bypass pipe
>>> (black steel press fit, electrolytically welded to the Al pump body)
>> On mine, that was a separate part from the parts store. Yes, get a
>> new one of
>> those too while you're at it.
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2012 09:41:11 -0500
>> From: Francis Fastje <ffastje@cox.net>
>> Subject: Re: DML: water pump ?'s
>>
>> On 8/11/2012 8:37 AM, David Gersic wrote:
>>> On Friday, August 10, 2012 09:17:19 PM you wrote:
>>>> Well here I am again asking the great people of the DML for there
>>>> great
>>>> advise. I am sure its the water pump but a few symptoms first
>>>> thought it
>>>> was a bearing on one of the pulleys.
>>>> the sound of dry bearing getting ready to go was going to find it
>>>> in the
>>>> morning but get home with my son for some dinner and coolant is
>>>> flowing
>>>> out from under the truck at the front where
>>>> the water pump would be.
>>> Sounds like the same symptoms I had in the spring. Yep, it was the
>>> water pump.
>>> Mine's a 2001, so may not be identical to yours.
>>>
>>>
>>>> So if that sounds like the water pump is there
>>>> any tricks I should know.
>>>> The truck is a 1999 Dakota 3.9 with about 78000 miles. Thanks again
>>>> for
>>>> y'all being here and any help would be appreciated.
>>> On mine, the serpentine belt didn't provide enough grip to break the
>>> pulley
>>> bolts loose. I made a tool from some 3/4" iron bar stock and a
>>> couple of
>>> 1/4x20 bolts to fit the holes in the front of the pulley, so it
>>> could be held
>>> in place.
>>>
>>> Other than that, it's pretty straightforward. Drain the radiator.
>>> Remove the
>>> shroud. Remove the hoses. Remove the various bolts holding the pump.
>>> Remove
>>> the pump. I didn't touch the alternator or A/C compressor.
>>> Installation is, of
>>> course, the reverse of the removal steps, plus cleaning up the mess.
>>>
>>> While you're at it, you might as well replace the serpentine belt,
>>> pulley, and
>>> tensioner.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> When facing the truck does the fan bolt turn to the drivers side or the
>> passengers side to loosen?
>> Sorry for such a dumb question.
>>
>>
>> - -- Francis Fastje
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2012 10:12:18 -0500
>> From: David Gersic <info@zaccaria-pinball.com>
>> Subject: Re: DML: water pump ?'s
>>
>> On Saturday, August 11, 2012 09:41:11 AM you wrote:
>>> When facing the truck does the fan bolt turn to the drivers side or the
>>> passengers side to loosen?
>> On mine, it's a normal right-hand thread, so CW to tighten, CCW to
>> loosen. If
>> you buy the replacement pump first, you can check the threads on that
>> to be
>> sure.
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2012 10:52:02 -0500
>> From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11@mchsi.com>
>> Subject: DML: Dumb remark
>>
>> Call it dumb U like, but I'd rather have a robber as a man that supports
>> abortions & same sex marriagees!!!!
>>
>> Apparently I'm supposed to be more angry
>> about what Mitt Romney does with HIS money
>> than I am about what Obama does with MINE??
>>
>> Azie
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2012 10:56:09 -0500
>> From: Josh Battles <cletusjones@gmail.com>
>> Subject: RE: DML: water pump ?'s
>>
>> On Aug 10, 2012 11:09 PM, "Jim" <conv442@earthlink.net> wrote:
>>>
>>> first off when u get the new one make sure it includes the bypass pipe
>>> (black steel press fit, electrolytically welded to the Al pump body)
>> The one I used had the tube as a separate part number, there was an
>> oring
>> on the tube to seal it, was just press fit. Be sure to replace that
>> oring
>> or it will leak. I would also recommend getting a new pump over reman,
>> there's usually less issues, I've gotten a few bad remans before.
>>
>> I don't remember for sure but I feel like there's a small rubber line
>> that
>> goes from the top of the pump to up near the intake manifold, but that
>> might be for the 318, I don't remember.
>>
>>> break the fan free b4 u pull the serp belt
>>>
>>> can be R&Red with the shroud in place
>> Pull the shroud (6 nuts) and remove the pump with the fan attached.
>> Chuck
>> the impeller in a bench vise and remove the fan that way, there's
>> plenty of
>> clearance to remove it as a unit without the shroud and it's easier than
>> trying to stop the pump from turning.
>>
>>> have to move the alt and AC compressor out of the way, no need to break
>> the
>>> AC hoses
>> No need to touch any of these things, but I would change belts, maybe
>> pop
>> for a new tensioner if needed.
>>
>> Remember to remove all the old gasket so you get a clean surface for the
>> new gasket. No sealant should be used, the paper gasket is all you need.
>> If it leaks there was a surface prep mistake.
>>
>> Good luck,
>> Josh
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2012 18:18:23 -0500
>> From: Barrysuperhawk <barrysuperhawk@comcast.net>
>> Subject: RE: DML: Re: new political blog?
>>
>> Give me any type of a robber or crook in office anyday over the type
>> of social engineering that some are trying to do. Â When it comes to
>> business if you're not cheating a little bit you're not trying hard
>> enough.Â
>>
>> Â Just to be clear those are philosophical comments not political
>> ones ...
>>
>>
>> Sent from my Samsung smartphone on AT&T
>>
>> - -------- Original message --------
>> Subject: DML: Re: new political blog?
>> From: Mike & Sharon Higgins <clearcreek@gobrainstorm.net>
>> To: dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net
>> CC:
>>
>>
>> I suppose I should provide a comment to Azie's dumb remark about the
>> Robber
>> Baron Romney, but I don't give political remarks on the DML.
>>
>> mike
>>
>> - ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11@mchsi.com>
>> To: <dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net>
>> Sent: Friday, August 10, 2012 2:35 PM
>> Subject: DML: V6 vs V8 driveline
>>
>>
>>> Can anyone tell me the differences in the (drive lines
>>> components) Xfer case, springs & U joints Etc between
>>> the V6 & V8 4X4's from say the '92 thru the '96 model
>>> years?? I would think the V8 got a bit heavier duty
>>> components, but you never know unless you've BTDT..
>>>
>>> Apparently I'm supposed to be more angry
>>> about what Mitt Romney does with HIS money
>>> than I am about what Obama does with MINE??
>>>
>>> Azie
>>>
>>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2012 20:24:41 -0500
>> From: Francis Fastje <ffastje@cox.net>
>> Subject: Re: DML: water pump ?'s
>>
>> On 8/11/2012 10:56 AM, Josh Battles wrote:
>>> On Aug 10, 2012 11:09 PM, "Jim" <conv442@earthlink.net> wrote:
>>>> first off when u get the new one make sure it includes the bypass pipe
>>>> (black steel press fit, electrolytically welded to the Al pump body)
>>> The one I used had the tube as a separate part number, there was an
>>> oring
>>> on the tube to seal it, was just press fit. Be sure to replace that
>>> oring
>>> or it will leak. I would also recommend getting a new pump over reman,
>>> there's usually less issues, I've gotten a few bad remans before.
>>>
>>> I don't remember for sure but I feel like there's a small rubber
>>> line that
>>> goes from the top of the pump to up near the intake manifold, but that
>>> might be for the 318, I don't remember.
>>>
>>>> break the fan free b4 u pull the serp belt
>>>>
>>>> can be R&Red with the shroud in place
>>> Pull the shroud (6 nuts) and remove the pump with the fan attached.
>>> Chuck
>>> the impeller in a bench vise and remove the fan that way, there's
>>> plenty of
>>> clearance to remove it as a unit without the shroud and it's easier
>>> than
>>> trying to stop the pump from turning.
>>>
>>>> have to move the alt and AC compressor out of the way, no need to
>>>> break
>>> the
>>>> AC hoses
>>> No need to touch any of these things, but I would change belts,
>>> maybe pop
>>> for a new tensioner if needed.
>>>
>>> Remember to remove all the old gasket so you get a clean surface for
>>> the
>>> new gasket. No sealant should be used, the paper gasket is all you
>>> need.
>>> If it leaks there was a surface prep mistake.
>>>
>>> Good luck,
>>> Josh
>>>
>>>
>> Thanks everybody for the help its all done.
>> Seems to not be leaking. That freaking fan is a pain in the ass.
>> Even had the shit tool from the parts store but no spanner wrench.
>> Ended up getting it with a pry bar wedged in and a cresent.
>>
>> - -- Francis Fastje
>>
>>
> 98 Dakota Sport 3.9. I need to change out the alternator but I'm
> having trouble with the tensioner. I use a 15mm socket on the center
> pulley bolt but instead of the tension being released, the bolt just
> gets tighter. I'm afraid I will snap the bolt. Am I not doing
> something right? I've never heard of a tensioner freezing up.
>
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I really don't know $pook. R U turning it the right way.
Soak it down with pb blaster and try again tomorrow.
-- Francis Fastje
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