----------
> From: 00gtomo@bsuvc.bsu.edu
> To: Dakota Mailing List <dakota-truck@buffnet.net>
> Subject: Re: DML: Best Dak finish (paint)
> Date: Wednesday, December 03, 1997 3:37 PM
>
>
> On Wed, 3 Dec 1997, Jeff Lee wrote:
>
> > Anybody know how the non-metalic clearcoat paints (flame red, black,
> > etc.) hold up compared to the metalic pearlcoats (intense blue, emerald
> > green, etc.)? I like the flame red on the 98 Dak (this seems to be the
>
> Jeff,
>
> I have a black 92. This summer I had to have the hood and roof
repainted.
> the body shop guy said that the clearcoat had "died" he also referred to
> it as crow's feet. It cost around $300 to have it repainted. The reason
> it was so much was the fact that they had to strip all the paint and
clear
> off.
>
>
> >
> > Also the same question with reguards to repair, repaint, buffing, etc.
> > I've heard that the clearcoats are easier to work with. Any thoughts?
> >
> > jeff
> >
>
> I had not had any problems until the last time I buffed my truck. After
I
> did this it looked like someone took a scotch-brite pad to it. I used
> Mequire's gentlest buffing compound, the stuff in the cream colored
> bottles, then went over it with Mequire's Wax. I think I am gonna have
to
> have the truck wet-sanded and buffed at a body shop to get the swirls
out.
>
> Just my $0.02
>
> Gregg
> 92 V6 CC, msd ignition and
blaster 3 coil, FIPK clone with s-bolt
Hi all!
Here's my 2 cents. My dad owns a body shop and I just asked him about using
a buffer to wax the truck and he said to stay away from using the buffer,
it will wear out the clear coat . He said that you only use a buffer on
older finishes that your trying to bring back a shine to.
Linda & Mac
'98 4X4 V6
Deep Amethyst Pearlcoat
Reg. Cab Base Model
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