Just finished installing the 2" drop blocks. Don't have any pics yet.
My camcorder is broke and needs to go to the shop. I'll have to snap
some 35's after I wash it. Man the old Ubolts were a pain to get off.
Had to fight those nuts off every milimeter of the way. I guess all the
rust and mud and stuff roughed up the threads to where they wouldn't
spin free. Took forever getting those off, I'd do about 3 turns and lay
there and rest, 3 more, rest...... and if you've ever done this you know
how shallow the thread pitch is so it takes about a million turns to get
the nuts off. But I finally got them off. When I put the blocks in
they
didn't want to line up. apparently after everything was taken loose the
axle shifted just a tad towards the back of the truck, or maybe the
spring flexed forward. At any rate I couldn't even fit things back to
the stock configuration, so I layed there and thought for about 30 mins.
......... Prybar.... No..... start it up and put it in gear..... HELL
NO...... jack up the front part of the diff..... tried it but dind't
work..... Ah ha!, a come-along. Dug out the ole come-along and parked
the tractor with a box blade up by the front wheel, wraped the cable
around the axle ancored it to the box blade and cranked it back in
line. Kinda nearvous pulling on the axle with a come-along, but it
didn't take hardly any pressure, just no other way to pull it back, and
it was only a 1/2" or so out. Finally got the little pegs and holes to
line up, put on the new U bolts and tightended 'em down. Did the same
on the other side. Torqued them to the suggested 80ft/lbs and job
complete. Took about 4 hours which included running to town to buy some
jack stands (can you guys believe I installed my headers with no jack
stands???? You might guess I'm pretty thin.) I also borrowed an air
powered impact wrench which did nothing but waste time, turned one nut a
half turn with that. When I got finished it was dark outside so I can't
get a good look at how it turned out yet, but it looks to be almost
perfectly
level. You can definately tell the rear is lower when driving
it. Rides the same, can't tell any differance. Except on the corners,
it feels a little more solid which I guess makes sense since I lowered
the center of gravity. I hope to have some pics up on my site in a few
days.
Anyway since these did not line up perfectly until I pulled the axle
back to where it should have been, I'm wondering if there is anything in
the rear end that could be thrown out of alignment by these? I can't
hear any strange noises (kinda hard anyway with the flowmaster), and
when I apply power it tracks straight. Is there any thing I need to
check or keep an eye on, like the drive shaft or u joints? Just
wondering. So far everything seems normal.
It wasn't as difficult as I thought it would be, but it was close.
Anyway, I bet Trotman could even do it ;~) (Sorry Rob, but you are such
a good sport about it, and I just couldn't resist....) Hang in there,
we'll stop kiddin' ya before long.
--
----
Michael Clark mike@snakebite.com
'93 MarkIII 4X2 V-8 SWB RC auto, DDBC
K&N FIPK, Flowmaster cat-back dual, MP SBEC
Doug Thorley Headers, Moroso Blue Max wires, 2" rear drop
180 degree thermostat, WaterWetter, Brass cap & rotor
one and only 1/4 mile time of 15.08 @ 90.82
My Dakota page=> http://userv.wt.net/~mclark/dakota.html
Dakota Webring=> http://userv.wt.net/~mclark/webring/ring.html
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