Comments below...
Robert Trottmann wrote:
> >
> > The only real inconvenience is taking your rotors and drums to a shop to
> > get them turned (any brake shop, Pep Boys, etc.) if the Dak is your
> > primary mode of transportation - you will need a 2nd set of wheels to
> > get them there and back.
> >
>
> I don't totally understand brakes, but I'm about to read the brake chapter in
> my manual, but... if I'm just replacing pads, do I need to turn rotors and
> drums? Did you just mention this as a brake related thing that's not as easy
> as pads, or must you turn the rotors/drums when you change out pads? Disc has
> rotors, right?
>
Yes, the disk brakes have a rotor, ie. the metal disk that the brake
pads are clamped against to slow the vehicle. With the drum brakes, the
pads are pushed out to rub against the inside of the drum.
The rotor and drum wear due to the friction of the pad material. This
friction also generates alot of heat which causes the metal to develop a
slick glaze over time. Turning the rotors or drums involves having a
machine shop put them on a lathe to refinish the wear surface. The lathe
removes the glaze and part of the metal to smooth out the wear surface.
If you take your Dak to a brake shop, they will usually turn the
rotors/drums as standard practice. However, when you do the brake work
yourself, you certainly have the option of NOT turning them. I have
certainly done this on a number of occasions. At a minimum, though, you
need to break the glaze on the rotor/drum wear surface with some emery
cloth.
The downsides of not turning the rotors/drums when you change the pads
will be decreased life of the new pads, and possible decrease in braking
force/efficiency. This is because the new pads do not have the same wear
contour as the rotors/drums, and do not contact across the full surface.
Sorry for the long explanation. Hope this is helpful.
jeff - Atlanta, GA
98 RC 4x2 V8 5spd 3.55SG flares
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