Re: Brakes and Shocks.

From: JT McBride (James.McBride@GDEsystems.COM)
Date: Thu Feb 26 1998 - 16:59:04 EST


>Robert, don't let em scare you away with talk about bleeding the brakes.
>No need to mess with bleeding the brakes if you're just going to change
>the pads. The only time you need to open the hydraulics is to
>repair/replace wheel cylinders, master cylinder, brake lines, etc.
>During pad replacement, you just retract the wheel cylinders. Now if you

That's pretty bad advice.

You certainly _SHOULD_ bleed the brake system after pad/shoe replacement,
and if you have ABS, you ought to do it about twice that often.

Brake fluid absorbs moisture out of the air, and the more moisture it
absorbs, the LOWER it's boiling point gets. Even more important, the
brake fluid lubricates the brake system's moving parts. Sure, you can
just add oil to your engine when it's low, and never change it -- that's
exactly what you're talking about doing to the system you rely on to
decelerate!

Bleeding brakes isn't rocket science. If you don't have a vacuum setup,
it is a two-person job. Work out how to communicate. Here's what needs
to happen: 1) One person is at the wheel to be bled, with a hose on
the bleeder nipple, and a tiny wrench on the bleeder nut. 2) The other
person is in the cab, working the brake pedal (not the clutch!).
3) With the brake pedal up, open the bleeder nut, and call out Down!
4) Press down on the brake pedal, and hold at the lowest level it reaches.
5) When fluid stops, or after at least some fluid flows out of the
system, close the bleeder nut, and yell Up! 6) Upon hearing Up! release
the brake pedal gradually, so it sucks more fluid from the reservoir.

After three or more full strokes, check the reservoir, and top off
with clean fluid. I usually remove the old fluid from the reservoir with
a turkey baster and top it up with clean fluid before I even start
bleeding. That way the whole system has dry fluid.

Repeat the process until clear, clean fluid comes out.

Start with the wheel furthest from the reservoir (right rear) and work
towards the master cylinder -- RR, LR, RF, LF.

Yes it's tedious, yes, it MUST be done.

Jim

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