Re: Brakes and Shocks.

From: JT McBride (James.McBride@GDEsystems.COM)
Date: Thu Feb 26 1998 - 17:14:11 EST


>Correct me if I'm wrong but to retract the wheel cylinders you have to
>loosen the nipple and bleed enough brake fluid out to let it retract far
>enough to put new pads on, then after you have it reassembled you loosen
>it again and have someone press the brake pedal a few times to insure
>there's no air in the lines, because if you don't and there is air in the

I use a big C-clamp to compress the piston. That's a tricky thing, because
you need to insure the piston retracts evenly. If it is pressed in crooked,
it will either bind, and not retract enough for new pads, or you'll do
enough damage to the bakelite piston to make it leak.

I usually just let the fluid back up into the reservoir, but if the pads
are really worn, you have to remove fluid from the reservoir first, or
it will overflow (see earlier post reference to turkey baster).

Yes, you need to bleed the brakes after doing all this.

BTW, I only change or turn the rotors if I've had problems with warpage,
or there are visible grooves. I don't think semi-metallic pads require
you to break the rotor glaze. They still stop fine. But then, I'm using
NAPA's lifetime warranty pads, so I get new pads for free, whereas new
rotors would cost me money.

Jim



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