Colin,
You are forging new ground for the DML from what I can tell. HPM had a good
article on the level 10 install (same as transgo for the most part). They
covered some of the things you are talking about. You may also be scaring
some of us re: can it be done satisfactorily the first time? Would the video
have helped? Ive never had to "tweak" a kit as much as you have described
in your post (Ive only installed B&M kits in 727s and 904s). Do you think
its unique to your situation?
BKB
-----Original Message-----
From: Vincent Heckathorn [mailto:victorylane@iwaynet.net]
Sent: Wednesday, August 19, 1998 9:47 PM
To: dakota-truck@buffnet.net
Subject: DML: Transgo shift kit thoughts
After having played with the transgo shift kit for a few weeks here is
some of the quirks that I have come up against.
None are really bad but when you try to get the very best shift you can
it takes a little time and that means going into the valve body a few
times
#1 If you drill the 2-3 feed hole to big the 2-3 shift may flare up at
med. throttle pressure. To cure this there is two things that can be
done, the first is the front band adjustment. Jack the rear of the truck
up so the rear wheels are free, tighten the band until you can't turn
the drive shaft backwards by hand ( take it out of park !!!!!). Loosen
the band until you can just turn the drive shaft backwards and then go
about 1/4 turn.
If then you get a 1-2 1-2 1-2 up and down shift, loosen the band 1/4
turn at a time to get that out. If that doesn't fix the 2-3 flare up you
then will have to make 2-3 feed hole smaller. To do this you need to
have a very flat piece of steel to lay the plate on, then take a check
ball and place it on the feed hole, tap it with a hammer until the hole
gets smaller ( check size with drill bit ), be careful not to bend the
plate!!!!.
#2 The 1-2 feed hole is not to be drilled more than .101 unless the rear
servo parts are installed, but you can make this hole bigger than that
but only if you are not going to shift it manually, you can go as big as
you want ( a few thousands at a time )to get that 1-2 shift neck
snapping hard. If you do go larger than .101 and shift it manually you
will get some bind in the 1-2 shift ( too much over lap, soft shift ).
The tech at transgo confirmed this, also he said that we should not
install the rear servo parts as doing this will make the shift very
violent. He said to make the 1-2 feed hole .106, this will give about
25% better shift than going .093, but the 1-2 may bind if shifted
manually.
#3 I am having some other problems that make getting the trany to work
like I want it to. At full throttle the engine gets very flat at around
4700 rpm, at first I thought I could live with this so I adjusted
everything so the trany would shift at that point and everything's
working fine. Well one day I just happened to let off of the peddle
about 1/8 " and man did the engine crank to the rev limiter like hell,
well now I just can't live with that 4700 max rpm now that I know this
thing will kick a** going to 5300. I put a throttle stop on the TB (
until I can get it to the dealer to find out what's wrong ) . Now we
have a problem with the shift points. Since we aren't at WOT anymore and
since I have a jet II chip the shift points are through the roof, I can
get them down to where I want them with the TV cable but at moderate
driving the shifts are to close and to soft ( only at moderate throttle
pressure ), but I like them nice and firm all the time. If the dealer
can't get the WOT thing under control I will have to go this route, so
if this is what I have to do I will have to decrease the throttle
pressure on the valve body ( I am using the white tp spring with it
turned up 1 1/2 turns ), this will let me dead the TV cable to give me
back the good part throttle shifts. I think what is happening is that
the TPS may be messed up or that the trans. gov. pressure isn't matching
the pressure that the ECM says that it has. This may be two fold in the
rpm problem as well.
If anyone is having any of these problems I hope this helps
Colin
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