Bruce;
Sorry about the scare, Yes I have tried to get things working a little to good,
I seem to never be able to leave well enough alone. The first go round the trany
worked very well, so I then began to tweak it a little more then ran into the
rpm deal and that put a little more work into it. I now have every thing working
just fine. I just got in from the garage. I lowered the pressure back to the
setting in the instructions and readjusted the front band, and every thing is a
go!!!!!
I think that the TPS on my dakota had a lot to do with every thing, I still need
to get it to the dealer to have it checked out.
I think that everyone that is wanting one of these shouldn't have any problems
like I have had ( they really wasn't problems ) just make sure that you follow
the step by step instructions and keep everything very clean. Do not use shop
rags to wipe down any parts, I have seen so many trany's take a sh** because of
the lint from them. Use lots of brake clean and let it air dry.
You can do this!!!!!!!!
Colin
Bridges, Bruce wrote:
> Colin,
> You are forging new ground for the DML from what I can tell. HPM had a good
> article on the level 10 install (same as transgo for the most part). They
> covered some of the things you are talking about. You may also be scaring
> some of us re: can it be done satisfactorily the first time? Would the video
> have helped? Ive never had to "tweak" a kit as much as you have described
> in your post (Ive only installed B&M kits in 727s and 904s). Do you think
> its unique to your situation?
> BKB
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vincent Heckathorn [mailto:victorylane@iwaynet.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, August 19, 1998 9:47 PM
> To: dakota-truck@buffnet.net
> Subject: DML: Transgo shift kit thoughts
>
> After having played with the transgo shift kit for a few weeks here is
> some of the quirks that I have come up against.
> None are really bad but when you try to get the very best shift you can
> it takes a little time and that means going into the valve body a few
> times
>
> #1 If you drill the 2-3 feed hole to big the 2-3 shift may flare up at
> med. throttle pressure. To cure this there is two things that can be
> done, the first is the front band adjustment. Jack the rear of the truck
> up so the rear wheels are free, tighten the band until you can't turn
> the drive shaft backwards by hand ( take it out of park !!!!!). Loosen
> the band until you can just turn the drive shaft backwards and then go
> about 1/4 turn.
> If then you get a 1-2 1-2 1-2 up and down shift, loosen the band 1/4
> turn at a time to get that out. If that doesn't fix the 2-3 flare up you
> then will have to make 2-3 feed hole smaller. To do this you need to
> have a very flat piece of steel to lay the plate on, then take a check
> ball and place it on the feed hole, tap it with a hammer until the hole
> gets smaller ( check size with drill bit ), be careful not to bend the
> plate!!!!.
>
> #2 The 1-2 feed hole is not to be drilled more than .101 unless the rear
> servo parts are installed, but you can make this hole bigger than that
> but only if you are not going to shift it manually, you can go as big as
> you want ( a few thousands at a time )to get that 1-2 shift neck
> snapping hard. If you do go larger than .101 and shift it manually you
> will get some bind in the 1-2 shift ( too much over lap, soft shift ).
> The tech at transgo confirmed this, also he said that we should not
> install the rear servo parts as doing this will make the shift very
> violent. He said to make the 1-2 feed hole .106, this will give about
> 25% better shift than going .093, but the 1-2 may bind if shifted
> manually.
>
> #3 I am having some other problems that make getting the trany to work
> like I want it to. At full throttle the engine gets very flat at around
> 4700 rpm, at first I thought I could live with this so I adjusted
> everything so the trany would shift at that point and everything's
> working fine. Well one day I just happened to let off of the peddle
> about 1/8 " and man did the engine crank to the rev limiter like hell,
> well now I just can't live with that 4700 max rpm now that I know this
> thing will kick a** going to 5300. I put a throttle stop on the TB (
> until I can get it to the dealer to find out what's wrong ) . Now we
> have a problem with the shift points. Since we aren't at WOT anymore and
> since I have a jet II chip the shift points are through the roof, I can
> get them down to where I want them with the TV cable but at moderate
> driving the shifts are to close and to soft ( only at moderate throttle
> pressure ), but I like them nice and firm all the time. If the dealer
> can't get the WOT thing under control I will have to go this route, so
> if this is what I have to do I will have to decrease the throttle
> pressure on the valve body ( I am using the white tp spring with it
> turned up 1 1/2 turns ), this will let me dead the TV cable to give me
> back the good part throttle shifts. I think what is happening is that
> the TPS may be messed up or that the trans. gov. pressure isn't matching
> the pressure that the ECM says that it has. This may be two fold in the
> rpm problem as well.
>
> If anyone is having any of these problems I hope this helps
>
> Colin
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