Gary Pinkley wrote:
>
> The Western chassis dropped A-Arm does not correct
> bump steer.
>
> Dakotas have bad bump steer when lowered beyond
> 2". This is caused by the angle of the steering tie rods
> with respect to the rack. The factory designs steering
> geometry to cause slight understeer. In this condition,
> the tie rods point slighly downward from the rack at ride
> height. This allows the wheels to point slightly outward
> during cornering. Subjective testing by automakers has
> shown that normal drivers feel more comfortable with
> slight understeer versus oversteer. Slight understeer can
> be corrected by simply lifting off the throttle on a rear wheel
> drive vehicle. This is a natural reaction when your car is
> pushing towards a guard rail. Lowering beyond 2" on a Dak
> angles the tie rod upwards. This gives oversteer, i.e. the
> truck's steering seems to be overly sensitive and twitchy
> when cornering. Also if you encounter a bump during that
> corner, the truck will seem to dart to the inside, seeming
> to change lanes without warning.
>
> As I stated above, the dropped A-Arm DOES NOT correct
> bump steer. The only way to correct bump steer on a lowered
> Dak is to change the angle of the steering tie rod. The dropped
> a-arm only lowers the spring pocket, changing the pre-load on
> the spring, allowing the vehicle to sit lower. Only by relocating
> either the rack (can't be done without major surgery to the Dak)
> or by lowering the outer tie rod ball joint can you return your Dak
> to the factory geometry. Changing the outer tie rod location can
> be accomplished in several ways, all of which require increasing
> the rim diameter above the factory 15" size. You can cast a new
> spindle which has it's steering arm lower than stock, you can try
> to put spacers between the tie rod and the spindle, or install a new
> tie rod end that has a longer stud. Looking at the factory spindle
> with 15" rims, you will see that there is no room to play with the
> vertical height of the ball joint.
>
> Gary Pinkley
> 97 Reg Cab V-6 5 spd
> lowered monochrome red
> 255/50-17 BFG Comp T/A ZR4
> Budnik 17x8 wheels
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bob Nichols <bnich@bellatlantic.net>
> To: dakota-truck@buffnet.net <dakota-truck@buffnet.net>
> Date: Sunday, November 08, 1998 5:33 AM
> Subject: Re: DML: Pictures of Lowered Dak's (Vince -Scott)
>
> >Vincent Heckathorn wrote:
> >>
> >> Bob;
> >> I have lowered mine 1.75" in front and 2" in the rear
> >> I you go more than 2" in the front you won't have very much suspension
> >> travel.
> >> I had to replace the suspension bumpers on the front so that it would 't
> >> bottom out.
> >> Also more than 2" you will get some bump steer.
> >> I think that 2" in front and 3" in the rear is all that you will want.
> >>
> >> FWIW
> >>
> >> Colin H.
> >>
> >> Bob Nichols wrote:
> >>
> >> > Getin close to buying the Western Chassis Kit, still unsure if I want
> to
> >> > go 2/4 or 3/5. I've seen Todd's pictures of his 3/5 (very nice). Does
> >> > any body have any pictures of a 2/4?? I realize if I go for the 2/4, I
> >> > can get another inch in the rear with blocks, what can I do (short of
> >> > changing the springs) to get that extra inch in the front? Thanx Bob
> >
> >Vince, My understanding on this is: If you use springs alone to drop the
> >front, yes you'll get bump steer, however if you use the Westen Chassis
> >kit with the new A-Frames you won't have this problem. Bob
> >
Hey Gary, Thanks for the info, I guess I was mis-informed. The more I
talk about this, the more confused I get. I certainly don't want to make
my Dak harder to handle. I also like the "rake" of my truck, looks a
little race car like. But hate the huge empty wheel wells. Maybe if
I go 2/2 it will be lower but still have the rake. Like I said in
another post I think Todds 3/5 looks very nice. If the A arms don't
correct the bump steer, why go thru all that trouble? Seems like 2"
springs would be alot easier, no? Decisions, Decisions. Todd you there??
Do you get that Bump Steer? Thanx Gary
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