RE: JBA header buy

From: Mok, Alan (SPB) (AMok@spbank.com)
Date: Wed Dec 30 1998 - 10:43:17 EST


Instead of the old fashion exhaust pipe clamps try using "bands" from
walker/dynomax. they are stainless steel bands that wraps around and spread
the load over a wide area (about 3in wide). Won't crimp the pipe and it help
seals much better.

Alan

'98 Dakota R/T (JBA shorties, Big K&N;TB & shiftkit soon)
'89 Mustang GT (347, Griggs GR-40 , Vortech S-trim...)
Ducati 996 (not while my wife is alive)

                -----Original Message-----
                From: Alan Short [mailto:ashort@flash.net]
                Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 1998 9:18 AM
                To: dakota-truck@buffnet.net
                Subject: Re: DML: JBA header buy

                Patrick Delgado wrote:
>
> Hey dudes(and dudettes),
>
> I called Internet Racers Supplies today and inquired about
the JBA
> headers.
> The lady that answered connected me to someone that could
give me a
> volume
> discount. The man said unless they were all shipping to
the same
> address he
> couldn't give me anything off. Not only that, in the
middle of Dec.
> the headers
> went up to $398. Not a good shopping trip.
> It seems like I'm going with the Leach headers. You guys
promised
> more HP and
> no welding(muffler clamps OK). If this is true count me in
on the
> group buy.
> One can't go wrong with more power.
> So far I've got Gibson split duals cat-back, K&N FIPK,
Triple
> platinum splitfires
> and Taylor cables. Can the stock computer work good with
the header
> addition?
> dadoctah@worldnet.att.net
>

                        Doc, tell me again about your Dak. What cab style,
motor/trans, year. I
                installed my Leach headers by myself except for welding. I
think clamps
                won't work, at least in my application ('98 R/T). If you
call Leach
                directly, ask his opinion. I have a reg cab and had to cut
off all but
                2" of pipe going to the cat inlet. The Y-pipe outlet wasn't
a close
                enough fit to clamp, and if it were, the Leach pipe is thick
and
                chromed. I dont think it'll crimp very well. The slip joint
in the
                drivers side Y-pipe runs very close behind the oil pan and
there isn't
                room for a clamp, and once again, it's chrome. If you clamp
a chrome
                pipe, the chrome cracks and flakes off. I don't have to tell
you about
                rust, I'm sure you're familiar with that. Also, you'll need
access to a
                lift and a sawzall to complete the install. About a 4hr job.
Alan S.



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