Martin,
The easiest way is to run a "dedicated" line directly from the + terminal of
the battery to the amp(s). Go through the firewall and under the carpet
along the trans. tunnel or down the side of the car (route as far away from
any speaker leads as you can, unless you like the sound of
alternator/electrical noise!).
An inline fuse can be found at most car audio places and many auto supply
stores. Keep the fuse close to the battery (within 18" is what I've always
heard.) The best ones I've seen are a glass fuse encased in a clear (ABS)
plastic container. Makes it easy to check and see if the fuse is blown when
troubleshooting.
The gauge of wire you use depends on how strong an amp you're running. I'd
use no smaller than 10 gauge, with my own preference being for 8 gauge wire
for a single amp install (up to 300W). If you plan to go with more than 1
amp (say adding a 4 channel to drive the fronts and rears separate from the
sub) run 4 gauge and get a distribution fuse block-- adds in another level
of fuse protection and makes it easy to drive both amps off the single
battery lead. Plus it just looks cool! :)
Hope this helps. Email me if you've any more questions or would like
clarification.
--Brett
-----Original Message-----
From: Martin [mailto:martindt@pacbell.net]
Sent: Monday, January 04, 1999 1:39 PM
To: DML
Subject: DML: Amp wiring
DML,
Today, I ordered a JL stealth box that should be in a couple of
weeks. I'm installing the amp under the passenger seat. Question is how
did you guys route the +12vdc battery power to amp under the passenger
seat? The fosgate amp requires a separate 30 amp fuse.
-- Martin Tolentino99 Dakota R/T CC
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