This is a wicked rough rendering of a spark plug, but the gap you are
measuring is the distance between the ground electrode (the elbow looking
thing that comes off the side of the plug) and the center electrode (the
round thing in the middle of the plug). Slide your gapper between the
two... It should be snug as in some resistance being felt as the gap tool
slides between the two metal pieces.
-------- --
| | = .040in or 1.01mm
| |-| --
| |--| |--|
| -| |
|-------------|
|-------------|
|-------------|
Do you have an after-market ignition system that would allow for a larger gap??
Did the engine run rough with the stock plugs.
If the answer is no to both I'd re-gap to the factory spec. of .040 and check my
wires to make sure I didn't cross two of 'em. Also check the fit of the wires
at the distributor and coil... I noticed I loosened one up on the distributor
when I was fiddling with the them.
Good luck.
Tom
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: RE: DML: Spark Plugs Once Again
Author: <dakota-truck@buffnet.net> at smtpout
Date: 2/15/99 10:38 AM
I suppose it was warm up on the fuel thing. The idol is rough, and
drives like the pistons are not firing at all have the time.... I
almost want to say the gap is too small for the type of spark being
delivered???? How can I tell if the plugs are gapped to far out??? Is
there a solid test to determine if the gapping is ideal, too far out, or
to close in.... I found the small gap to give one rough of a mother
ride.... First time burnt one of my plugs a little bit....
Jason
2/15/99 10:41 AM
-----Original Message-----
From: fawcett@uism.bu.edu [SMTP:fawcett@uism.bu.edu]
Sent: Monday, February 15, 1999 9:56 AM
To: dakota-truck@buffnet.net
Subject: Re: DML: Spark Plugs Once Again
Hmmmmm... I don't understand why your having a problem. My
Champion truck
plugs are dead on at .040 and she idles smooth as butter. It's
a tiny
little 318, but that shouldn't make a difference, should it?
About the fuel on the plugs though, I think that is normal if
the engine
was cold when you fired her up. I don't know if they even call
it a choke
on these new fangled engines, but there is sh*t load of fuel
being pumped
into the motor during warm-up... Now if your plugs are still
wet after
reaching operating temp., then you've got a real problem.
Help me out here guys if I'm off the mark, but this is what I
found out
when I went through my Bosch Platinum +4 fiasco!
Tom
______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________
Subject: DML: Spark Plugs Once Again
Author: <dakota-truck@buffnet.net> at smtpout
Date: 2/15/99 9:12 AM
I am still trying to find a good gapping for my NGK plugs. My
little
R/T really hates the .040 gap with these plugs. I have checked
the
Champion stock numbers. Yep, it has a 4 at the end of it. I
checked
the gapping on a couple. Nope it is not .040.... When ever I
close in
on the .040 recommendation it becomes a rough ride, shoot rough
idol. I
start 'er up, idol a sec. Pull the plugs, and bingo.... Left
over fuel
mix all over the electrodes.... Maybe I need a gapping 101
refresher
course.... I am gapping based on the center point of the metal
hook
looking part. Or I suppose you could say the electrode part.
They are
roughly the same on these NGK plugs. I currently have them
gapped at
about .043 on the snug.... This brings the metal loop side
about flush
with the .045 marker on my gapper. This has been the biggest
darn pain
so far, yep worse than the radiator hose. BTW, what Lug Nut
designed
one of the A/C lines to pass right by the passenger side
plugs.... Oh
and don't over look those wiring harnesses over there too... My
favorite is still the driver side metal shield looking things
below the
header area. Hmm yummy, I love that 40 degree weather pain I
get from
slamming into sharp cold metal monsters.... Thanks....
Jason
2/15/99 9:10 AM
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