Thanks to all for the info on the lowering blocks. One more thing, will the rear
shock operate the same way after being lowered or should is there a shock mount
extension available?
Thanks again,
Adam '99 CC, Sport, V8, 5peed, 3.92SG
Mark Kuzia wrote:
> I ordered the AIM lowering blocks for my 99' Dakota yesterday. I bought them
> because they were "extruded", not cast AIM guarantees them not to break!
> Steel would be nice but I could not find anyone who made them "angle
> corrected". The AIM are. The following is an excerpt from their catalog:
>
> AIM'S EXTRUDED ALUMINUM LOWERING BLOCK WILL NEVER BREAK LIKE OTHER BLOCKS.
> OTHER BLOCKS ARE MADE FROM "CAST" RECYCLED ALUMINUM THAT IS BRITTLE. AIM'S
> BLOCKS HAVE MACHINED STEEL PINS MATED TO ANGLED "DRIVE-LINE PINON" CORRECT
> BLOCKS. THIS MEANS YOUR DRIVE-LINE WILL NOT MAKE NOISE AND WEAR YOUR PINION
> GEAR OUT. ANOTHER QUALITY PRODUCT FROM AIM INDUSTRIES - lifetime warranty
> too............
>
> Mark
> http://home.att.net/~flyboy01
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AJRoss50@aol.com <AJRoss50@aol.com>
> To: dakota-truck@buffnet.net <dakota-truck@buffnet.net>
> Date: Friday, February 19, 1999 6:33 PM
> Subject: Re: DML: Lowering Blocks
>
> >>Does anyone know where to get good 2" lowering blocks? Are steel better
> >>than aluminum? Any information would ne appreciated.
> >
> >>Thanks,
> >
> >>Adam 5.2, 5speed, 3.92 SG
> >
> >Steel are better than aluminum. Try to stay away from aluminum blocks
> unless
> >they are forged aluminum. Try www.aimind.com They also advertise in
> >Truckin' and Sport Truck.
> >
> >Alex
> >97 CC Sport V8 5spd
> >Airaid Intake, Gibson cat-back, Pioneer CD, BFG Radial T/A's
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