Hey Peter,
I was playing around with an idea of a sleeve on the end-links...just like
on the OME Suspensions on Jeeps. As long as the sleeve is long enough, and
tough enough to handle daily driving, all that would be required is a
Pin/Sleeve setup.
I'll make up some drawings and send them to you personally...This might
just work.
At 09:39 AM 05/13/1999 -0400, you wrote:
>I was able to get mine off after I lost the key while stuck in a puddle
>(ok small Lake) with the Craftsman Robogrip pliers.
>Of course that was on a Toyota but if these enough room to get
>the pliers sidewards in there they should work.
>
>Dak Content.
> After much thought, I really can't see how I can get any semblence of
>Swaybar disconnect to work with our IFS. And after talking with a few IFS
>heads, it was discussed that the swaybar is best left connected in an ifs.
> If anyone wants me to go into detail on that subject I will but at the
>respect of those who don't like the delete key I will ask first :)
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Bernd D. Ratsch <bernd@texas.net>
>To: dakota-truck@buffnet.net <dakota-truck@buffnet.net>
>Date: Thursday, May 13, 1999 8:29 AM
>Subject: Re: DML: Good wheel lock news
>
>
>>Just make sure you keep the "Key" somewhere safe. I had lost mine for my
>>Javelin several years ago and had to have a shop "Chisel" the Wheel Locks
>>off. I agree with the Vise-Grips statement you made since i've tried that
>>myself. It just doesn't graband there's not a lot of room for leverage.
>>Has anyone tried any of those new "Super-Grip" sockets that work on rounded
>>bolt heads?? I'd be curious to see if they work on wheel locks.
>>
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: Bob Tom <tigers@bserv.com>
>>To: <dakota-truck@buffnet.net>
>>Sent: Thursday, May 13, 1999 7:37 AM
>>Subject: Re: DML: Good wheel lock news
>>
>>
>>> >This may be a stupid question, but what are these wheel locks? Anyone
>>got a
>>> >picture of them?
>>> >Eric
>>>
>>> McGard wheel lock nuts are rounded and smooth lug nuts that cannot be
>>> taken off with a lug wrench. They are triple-nickel chrome plated and
>>have
>>> a through-hardened alloy steel construction and longer than normal lug
>>nuts.
>>> At the end of the lock nut is a unique pattern that is 'grooved' into it.
>>> Each package comes with a wheel lock 'key' which has the pattern that
>will
>>> fit into
>>> the nut. The remaining part of the 'key' is shaped so that a lug wrench
>>can
>>> be go on it for removal. [ stud <= wheel lock <= lock key <= lug
>>wrench ]
>>> Each set with its unique pattern is associated with a number which you
>>> send into McGard for registration ... just in case you lose the lock key.
>>>
>>> One is used on each wheel. The idea is that, without the matching lock
>>key,
>>> no one can remove the lock nut. Some have said that thieves can remove
>>the
>>> lock nut with a vice grip. My opinion is that the vice grip would have
>to
>>> be top notch and, even then, only with tremendous difficulty
>(experimented
>>> and could not do it myself).
>>>
>>> McGard also sells premium lug nuts of the same construction ...
>guaranteed
>>not
>>> to chip, peel or rust. The OE lug nuts are pretty poor in construction
>>and
>>> material and will eventually either strip or break.
>>>
>>> I have used them on my custom rims for years. Gives a feeling that your
>>> expensive rims can't be ripped off, at least not with a great deal of
>>> difficulty.
>>>
>>> Bob
>>> Burlington, Ontario
>>>
>>> '97 CC Sport, 5.2L, 3.55, auto., 4x2
>>>
>>
>
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