I'm not for sure, but I have been told that carbon-metallic pads stop great,
but they will eat up your rotors pretty fast because of the metallic in them.
That's what a good friend of mine who is a mechanic told me. Maybe someone is
more familar with them, but until I hear more, I'm staying away from them.
Terri Pryer wrote:
> What kind should i get?
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jon Smith <jdsmith4@yahoo.com>
> To: dakota-truck@buffnet.net <dakota-truck@buffnet.net>
> Date: Monday, July 05, 1999 7:51 PM
> Subject: Re: DML: brake pads
>
> >Mark,
> >
> >pads are simple to change, all you need is a
> >screwdriver, and a 10mm socket.. maybe a C-clamp w/
> >block of wood to compress the piston.. You should
> >bleed the brakes.. I bought a migtyvac vacum pump,
> >and just flushed all the lines, putting fresh fluid
> >throughout; makes for long brake line life as the
> >brake fluid is hydrophilic
> >
> >
> >
> >--- Terri Pryer <dzoo@arn.net> wrote:
> >> Has any one replaced their brake pads them selves?
> >> I need to do it soon and
> >> was wondering if you need any special tools besides
> >> the basics. Also do you
> >> need to bleed them? anyway.
> >> Thanks
> >> Mark
> >> 91 cc 5spd 6er
> >>
> >>
> >
> >===
> >Jon Smith -- Raleigh, NC
> >'95 CC SLT 4x4 318 auto (15.653@89.12)
> >MP comp, JBA headers, 8.5mm MSD wires, 14x3 FABM & SBBS, dual cat-back
> glasspacks, 180 degree thermo, spectre wire dividers, ASP underdrive crank
> pulley, Hayden 16" elec. fan
> >http://come.to/killbilly
> >ICQ # 9720504
> >IM: Fast4x4
> >_________________________________________________________
> >Do You Yahoo!?
> >Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
> >
> >
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