Re: RE: Re: Re: 4.7 to 3.7 = more problems???

From: Will Coughlin (willcoughlin@hotmail.com)
Date: Tue Feb 27 2001 - 00:44:27 EST


True, it very well may be running as designed.I would just like to see it
run a little cooler.I've never been one to just ignore problems,or
irregularities. The dealer did want to sit the truck outside and let it run
and overheat,just to see what was causing the problem.I would not let them
do it.If I leave it idling in warm weather(above 50*),it takes about 2
minutes to get "hot"(205ish) without the air on.With the air on,it takes
about 15-17 minutes to warm up to the same place on the gauge.When it is
cool(less than 45*),I can usually leave the truck idling with the a/c or hot
on defrost without it getting to 205.Without the A/C, it will go to 205*,and
I don't know how much hotter it will get,as I haven't tried it.Ideally the
motor would have a pre-luber on it so I wouldn't be as concerned about the
starts,but it doesn't. Maybe one day I can add one, but I don't see much
point after you've ever started one without it. I'm concerned about oil
coking on the underside of the valve covers,timing covers,etc. when I shut
it down hot.That's why I don't shut it off and restart it while pumping fuel
in it.Head cracking/warping and blowing headgaskets are very common problems
among Iron block/Aluminum head ebgines.I've never seen a 4.7L come apart or
fail due to this, but all the other Aluminum on Iron costruction engines
I've seen have had problems with this.I am good friends with the service
manager at the local deal and I talk to him all the time.He has seen
numerous chevrolet "vortec" motors blow head gaskets,and most all that blew
the gasket had a cracked or warped head.These problems were directly traced
to a cooling problem that chevrolet had with some trucks equipped one
certain way.End result-motors saw 240*-250*,and they started losing water
due to one of the above problems.He said that any truck that has been in for
service and has been known to run warm or has overheated-they will not trade
for it.He said it's almost gauranteed to have the head/gasket problems,so
they won't deal with them.Ford recently sent a bulletin to dealers about a
revised headgasket design for the "triton" motors,because of the large
amount of failures they were having.My friends 2001 Ford F-150 5.4L/auto
went in for service,and they "accidentaly" left it running with a fender
cover over the grille.The DRB showed 252* coolant temp when they realized it
and shut it off.The truck has been through 4 headgaskets,2 heads,and on
intake manifold and gasket set trying to chase an internal loss of coolant
ever since. I'm just waiting to hear about the first 4.7L with a similar
problem.

Will Coughlin willcoughlin@hotmail.com
'00 reg.cab,2wd,4.7L/hd5-spd/3.92sg(9.25")
http://www.geocities.com/willcoughlin/index.html

----Original Message Follows----
From: Doug Fedeli <rdf@eznet.net>
Reply-To: dakota-truck@buffnet.net
To: dakota-truck-moderator@bent.twistedbits.net
Subject: Re: DML: RE: Re: Re: 4.7 to 3.7 = more problems???
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 16:06:32 -0600

Will,
I have to agree with Jon and Ronald about the coolant temp in your truck. It
looks like your truck is running properly. If there is a problem with the
cooling system that the dealer missed you should let it run and if it truly
over heats, let the dealer replace the engine under warranty. Don't baby it
now
and end up having to pay for it after the warranty runs out. I realize you
don't like to start the truck if you don't have to. Letting the truck sit
and
idle just builds up heat faster since the only air moving through the
radiator
is from the fans. If you have the AC on it just builds more heat. The other
thing that worries me is letting it idle while pumping gas but that's
another
problem. I don't think the lubed surfaces in the engine will dry off in the
time it takes you to pump the gas. Where did you hear about head and head
gasket problems?

Doug Fedeli

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