Uhh.. Do you realize that you are expressing concern that you may damage the
engine if you let it heat up past 210, and to justifiy this concern, you are
pointing to non-4.7 trucks that have seen 250+ when they were damaged. 40
degrees is a whole world.
If the 4.7 is designed to run at 210, then you won't see any problems with
the engine till you are heading into the upper 220s at a minimum. You are
being WAY to anal about this. There have been a whole lot of people on this
list who have told you such, and you are still unwilling to listen to
expereince.
As has been said, worse case (which, honestly, I doubt you will see) the
engine get's replace. But, I doubt you will see that problem. Let the
engine run at it's temp, and blow some sludge/carbon out of the engine by
running it above 2000rpm (where it's DESGINED to run) and see what happens.
As it is now, you are hurting the engine and it's ability to run by running
it outside it's design specs. This engine was NOT designed to never see
2000+, and it will be damaged by being run this way.
--Nick
----- Original Message -----
From: "Will Coughlin" <willcoughlin@hotmail.com>
To: <dakota-truck@buffnet.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2001 12:44 AM
Subject: Re: DML: RE: Re: Re: 4.7 to 3.7 = more problems???
> True, it very well may be running as designed.I would just like to see it
> run a little cooler.I've never been one to just ignore problems,or
> irregularities. The dealer did want to sit the truck outside and let it
run
> and overheat,just to see what was causing the problem.I would not let them
> do it.If I leave it idling in warm weather(above 50*),it takes about 2
> minutes to get "hot"(205ish) without the air on.With the air on,it takes
> about 15-17 minutes to warm up to the same place on the gauge.When it is
> cool(less than 45*),I can usually leave the truck idling with the a/c or
hot
> on defrost without it getting to 205.Without the A/C, it will go to
205*,and
> I don't know how much hotter it will get,as I haven't tried it.Ideally the
> motor would have a pre-luber on it so I wouldn't be as concerned about the
> starts,but it doesn't. Maybe one day I can add one, but I don't see much
> point after you've ever started one without it. I'm concerned about oil
> coking on the underside of the valve covers,timing covers,etc. when I shut
> it down hot.That's why I don't shut it off and restart it while pumping
fuel
> in it.Head cracking/warping and blowing headgaskets are very common
problems
> among Iron block/Aluminum head ebgines.I've never seen a 4.7L come apart
or
> fail due to this, but all the other Aluminum on Iron costruction engines
> I've seen have had problems with this.I am good friends with the service
> manager at the local deal and I talk to him all the time.He has seen
> numerous chevrolet "vortec" motors blow head gaskets,and most all that
blew
> the gasket had a cracked or warped head.These problems were directly
traced
> to a cooling problem that chevrolet had with some trucks equipped one
> certain way.End result-motors saw 240*-250*,and they started losing water
> due to one of the above problems.He said that any truck that has been in
for
> service and has been known to run warm or has overheated-they will not
trade
> for it.He said it's almost gauranteed to have the head/gasket problems,so
> they won't deal with them.Ford recently sent a bulletin to dealers about a
> revised headgasket design for the "triton" motors,because of the large
> amount of failures they were having.My friends 2001 Ford F-150 5.4L/auto
> went in for service,and they "accidentaly" left it running with a fender
> cover over the grille.The DRB showed 252* coolant temp when they realized
it
> and shut it off.The truck has been through 4 headgaskets,2 heads,and on
> intake manifold and gasket set trying to chase an internal loss of coolant
> ever since. I'm just waiting to hear about the first 4.7L with a similar
> problem.
>
> Will Coughlin willcoughlin@hotmail.com
> '00 reg.cab,2wd,4.7L/hd5-spd/3.92sg(9.25")
> http://www.geocities.com/willcoughlin/index.html
>
> ----Original Message Follows----
> From: Doug Fedeli <rdf@eznet.net>
> Reply-To: dakota-truck@buffnet.net
> To: dakota-truck-moderator@bent.twistedbits.net
> Subject: Re: DML: RE: Re: Re: 4.7 to 3.7 = more problems???
> Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 16:06:32 -0600
>
> Will,
> I have to agree with Jon and Ronald about the coolant temp in your truck.
It
> looks like your truck is running properly. If there is a problem with the
> cooling system that the dealer missed you should let it run and if it
truly
> over heats, let the dealer replace the engine under warranty. Don't baby
it
> now
> and end up having to pay for it after the warranty runs out. I realize you
> don't like to start the truck if you don't have to. Letting the truck sit
> and
> idle just builds up heat faster since the only air moving through the
> radiator
> is from the fans. If you have the AC on it just builds more heat. The
other
> thing that worries me is letting it idle while pumping gas but that's
> another
> problem. I don't think the lubed surfaces in the engine will dry off in
the
> time it takes you to pump the gas. Where did you hear about head and head
> gasket problems?
>
> Doug Fedeli
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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