Yet again I have another update to post. Right after I got in from work I
started working on the truck. I first took the GenIII Air Hat/Poboy Intake
off and double checked the TB gasket. Everything way fine. I then went onto
check the electrical connectors on the FMS#19 injectors; they were all fine
also. I checked the MSD ignition wires and made sure they werent crossed or
mixed up. Those were fine also. I then disconnected the battery and moved
onto installing the new Crankshaft Position Sensor. I bought it from the
dealer this morning for $55. I was not 100% identical to the stock one, so I
called to double check and it was indeed the correct part. I had to use some
washers because the mounting plate was alot thinner with the new sensor and
the bolts would not tighten down fully otherwise; compared to the stock
sensor which had a much thicker mounting plate. The bolts were not torx,
like I though they would be so I have to saw off one end of my old allen
wrenches and use a 1/4 socket and 2 long entension bars to remove the bolts.
It was redneck, but it worked! The stock one appeared to be in good
condition, other than having a nice coat of gunk/mud/oil all over the
outside of the sensor. The sensor's tip was the same length as the new Mopar
one, so that made me feel better even though the mounting plates were
different. It took me about 20 minutes to swap these sensors. I then moved
onto the O2 Sensor. The current O2 sensor was in for a mere 37,000 miles,
but I just wanted to make sure I could rule this sensor out also. In went a
Bosch O2 Sensor, which I bought as Autozone for $50. This sensor swap took
me about 15 minutes. I fired up the air compressor and put some air in the
tires, bled the puter out, and reconnected the negative battery cable. I
cleaned up and went for a highway drive. It ran great for 10 miles and did
the sputter, loud clicking noise only twice. Of course this is two times too
many for me. So only time will tell if it is indeed fixed. I guess next on
the list to rule out is replacing the battery, possibly getting a new
converter, and then moving onto the torque converter solenoid. On a
interesting note: Ever since this stalling has started, I have typically
always heard(more prevalent at speeds over 35) this loud clicking noise.
Well since it was nice out coming home from work, I had the rear sliding
window open.......when all over a sudden CLICK, power loss, CLICK, stumble,
CLICK. I wish I could explain it better than a clicking noise, but it kind
of sounds like someone, very briefly, is shaking a metal coffee can filled
with marbles. Or maybe someone spinning a bicycle tire and having a metal
garden rake hit the spokes. Now this noise doesnt last long at all, maybe
1-2 seconds, but it will happen 3-4 times within 15 seconds. I know noise
indicates to most that I have a plugged catalytic converter, right? Should
the converter be the next part replacement on my list? BUT, if my trucks
converter was plugged, wouldnt it be running like this(the stumbling/stall)
all the time and not ocassionally? I drove a car recently which had a
plugged converter and I couldnt go over 10 mph and it stalled every 20
yards. My truck can easily go 80mph, yet sometimes will stallout at 5mph. I
can get a 3" high flow converter installed for $145 this weekend, if needed.
And yes, 93 V6 Dakotas do have 3" stock pipes going into the converter! I
believe this was a 1992/1993 trait and the pipe size changed in 1994. Any
info on what to do next would be extremely appreciated. Converter? Battery?
TC solenoid? All of the above?
Kyle
93 Dakota 4x4 V6
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Fri Jun 20 2003 - 12:00:08 EDT