John check for blockages in the front of the radiator. I had the heavy duty
package on my '95 Dak, and I had a small automatic tranny fluid leak from
the tranny cooler, guss where, on the front of the radiator. No way to see
it, and I tell you almost half of the lower portion of the radiator was
covered with gunk. My truck was exactly the same. If it was moving it flowed
plenty of air, stuck in traffic I had to turn the AC off. There is no way to
check without pulling the radiator, because the condensor blocks your view
from the front. Good Luck!
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Neff" <jndneff@texas.net>
To: "Dakota Mailing List" <dakota-truck@buffnet.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 07, 2001 08:20
Subject: Re: DML: Flex-a-lite Black Magic fan #150 for sale
> Please explain. I don't see how a lower temp stat is going to keep the
truck
> cool, if a 180 fails to keep the truck under 240. The 180 is open and
> flowing big time by the time it hits 200. The 160 stat is going to open
> sooner, but if the fan isn't pulling enough air to keep the radiator cool,
> then the cooler stat isn't going to solve that. As soon as I start moving,
> more air through the radiator, the coolant temp drops fast. I can go from
> 240 back down to about 185 in less than 5 minutes. I need more air through
> the radiator. FWIW, I have the factory heavy duty package which includes a
> tranny cooler mounted between the radiator and A/C condenser. Maybe this
is
> what's causing the problem. I don't know.
>
> Water restrictor. I looked at this on Moroso's site and looks like this is
> going to make it harder for the coolant to leave the engine. If this is
> true, then the engine will run even hotter because by the time the coolant
> hits the radiator, it's going to be even hotter, and I can't cool down
what
> I have right now.
>
> What I do know is that I must get the truck back to a reliable situation
or
> I'm going to have big problems very soon. And, I have to do this on a very
> limited budget. Since the factory fan provided more than enough cooling,
and
> the electric doesn't, I'm going back to what works.
>
> Guys, I don't mean to sound like a dick right now. I'm just very
frustrated
> by the fact that this fan is unable to keep my truck cool in our Texas
> summers in stop and go traffic. Moving down the highway, or through town,
> everything works fine. But in stop and go traffic, it's not cutting it.
> Imagine what would happen if I tried to creep down a rocky trail. The
truck
> would probably boil over, or worse yet, burst the end caps on the
radiator.
> I'm just a little miffed that unless someone has been through what I'm
going
> through, and has an easy and cheap solution, I'm going to have to bolt
that
> HP sucking factory fan back on.
>
> John
>
>
> >Here is another idea. Keep the fan and use a 160 degree thermostat.... or
> >even a Moroso water restricter. Dan Bennet from the rtml has used these
> with
> >his Flex-a-lite fan and runs very cool... as low as 130 in the hot summer
> >weather. He says he has not had any check engine lights yet. I am going
to
> >try the red Moroso water restricter today with my Perma-Cool 16" electric
> >fan... got to get the gasket and then it is going in. If you are
interested
> >I can let you know the results. For you it would probably be better to
> start
> >with the 160 stat. I am going with the the water restricter because I
need
> >the motor to be as cool as possible to stave of detonation at the track.
>
>
>
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