>
> At 03:39 PM 7/10/02 -0400, you wrote:
> >i am in the process of painting an aar fiberglass cowl induction hood.
> >i don't want to pay the high$ of a body shop to paint. especially that
> >the truck needs a paint job eventually too. i tried priming the bare
> >hood with auto rustoleum primer. it didn't stick very well... i know
> >that's better suited for metal, but it didn't say anything about 'glass,
> >so what do i need to do?? i am going to wet sand it down now, cuz
> >it looks bad... thanks... Mike K
>
> Mike
>
> They put on some chemical in fiberglass parts so that it will come
> off the mode easily. Unfortunately, this leaves a invisible, greasy
> residue. You should thoroughly use a degreaser on the surface
> first. If you've already started sanding, let it dry, rub it with
thoroughly
> with a tack cloth to remove sand particles, then thoroughly rub it
> down with a grease/oil remover.
>
> Examine the surface for any flaws. For major ones (uneven surface, pits,
> waves, etc.), sand with 81 grit but don't press too heavily as it will
leave
> deep scratches and just make the time for fine sanding longer. Wrap
> the sandpaper around an even surfaced block of wood. Look especially
> around the edges. If parts are not even or rough, you can smooth out
> with a dremel tool. When you're satisfied that you've all major flaws
> have been smoothed out, use a tack cloth again. Then wet sand
> with 6 grit, dry, tack. When you satisfied that all little flaws are
gone,
> degrease again as a precaution (sometimes that stuff that used
> to slip out of mode really sinks in).
>
> As you can see the more time taken above, the better the paint
> job will be. You can prime with anything (even spray cans).
> Examine for any visible flaws before putting on the paint.
>
> I think that I've got those grit numbers right. Anyone?
>
> HTH and good luck.
> Bob
I'm not certified in body repair/ painting, but those sandpaper grits are a
bit low (grit) don't you think? If the hood has any major blemishes I would
start with 150/180 then work my way up (finer grit). That should take any
of the blemishes out of the fiberglass. You may have to use some putty (I
can't remember the name...I think it's two part putty) for the little
blemishes or some fiberglass resin for the bigger problem areas. Bondo
works well too as long as it's applied correctly...bondo only sticks to
three things...factory baked paint, epoxy primer and plastic. Start with
skim coats and apply any further coats as needed. You will need to apply it
so that it is actually higher than the surface of the hood because you will
be sanding it down...(obviously). You should finish with 400 or 600 grit
paper for final sanding. Your best bet is to use a can of black aerosol
paint and spray a fine mist over the entire hood and then sand with 400
grit paper to make sure the hood is level before painting...that way you
will know where you will need to apply plastic to make it uniform...add more
plastic as needed. Then apply the paint and clear coat, then wet sand with
2,000 grit paper followed by buffing with coarse rubbing compound followed
by fine rubbing compound and you should be set...considering that you don't
have any fish eyes or orange peel...if I'm wrong then please someone correct
me...it's been a few years since I've gone through autobody repair
school....I have no problem admitting I'm wrong...this is to the best of my
recollection...I just don't want another DML'er messing up something so
noticeable as a hood or other body part! Make sure that you clean the hood
after each sanding with an air gun and a suitable cleaner (alcohol) before
you begin the next step...especially before paint. Use a tack cloth after
the final cleaning to make sure you have removed all particles from sanding
and also finger prints...bad juju for paint!
Eric Jerman
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