At 03:39 PM 7/10/02 -0400, you wrote:
>i am in the process of painting an aar fiberglass cowl induction hood.
>i don't want to pay the high$ of a body shop to paint. especially that
>the truck needs a paint job eventually too. i tried priming the bare
>hood with auto rustoleum primer. it didn't stick very well... i know
>that's better suited for metal, but it didn't say anything about 'glass,
>so what do i need to do?? i am going to wet sand it down now, cuz
>it looks bad... thanks... Mike K
Mike
They put on some chemical in fiberglass parts so that it will come
off the mode easily. Unfortunately, this leaves a invisible, greasy
residue. You should thoroughly use a degreaser on the surface
first. If you've already started sanding, let it dry, rub it with thoroughly
with a tack cloth to remove sand particles, then thoroughly rub it
down with a grease/oil remover.
Examine the surface for any flaws. For major ones (uneven surface, pits,
waves, etc.), sand with 81 grit but don't press too heavily as it will leave
deep scratches and just make the time for fine sanding longer. Wrap
the sandpaper around an even surfaced block of wood. Look especially
around the edges. If parts are not even or rough, you can smooth out
with a dremel tool. When you're satisfied that you've all major flaws
have been smoothed out, use a tack cloth again. Then wet sand
with 6 grit, dry, tack. When you satisfied that all little flaws are gone,
degrease again as a precaution (sometimes that stuff that used
to slip out of mode really sinks in).
As you can see the more time taken above, the better the paint
job will be. You can prime with anything (even spray cans).
Examine for any visible flaws before putting on the paint.
I think that I've got those grit numbers right. Anyone?
HTH and good luck.
Bob
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