Actually, Being that it is the smooth one, if the belt was moving at the
crank, it would cause the belt to hang off the edge alittle on the smooth
one. This would be especially true if the belt skipped a tooth on the crank
side, then it would be hanging off by a tooth all over, and thats all she
wrote. Hopefully your condition is not crank walk, you do not want that by
any means. You think $300 (I dunno what you spent so far) is alot, try
seeing the repair bill for crank walk. Just a thought, but have you tried
cleaning the engine bay to free up any extra mud/dirt ?
A pond huh ? Bobbing for Daks ?!? LOL
Marty
http://members.cox.net/got-speed
""Mr. Plow"" <adam_is_mr_plow@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:F92md7QtDiWTvye8QP300015230@hotmail.com...
>
> It does make sense to me Marty.
> The first pulley that went was the smooth pulley, interconnected with the
> tensioner pulley-- a dual tensioner system.
> Based on the fact that the first pulley that went was smooth, i don't
> "think" that crank-walk would be responsible for it's damage, the offset
> force of a mis-aligned belt shouldn't have muh if any affect on a smooth
> pulley, should it?
> I guess i'm going to blame the damage to the 2nd pulley, and the first one
> that froze up. And i'll see if i can find a secluded pond to dump my dak
> into soon... hehehehe
> Hey Jon, you don't fish in those ponds that you have on your land, do
you???
> ;-)
>
>
>
> The Adam Blaster
> Two words, figure it out.....
>
>
>
>
> >
> >What I did to fix it ?!? I traded it in on my Dak ! LOL Seriously, some
> >little old lady bought it, ran into her a few months later and her *new*
> >warranty replaced the engine !
> >
> >Basically, to fix the problem of crank walk you would have to *at the
> >least*
> >take off the oil pan and inspect everything crank related. More than
likely
> >you would have to replace all the bearings between the crank and the
block,
> >possibly the con-rod bearings too. Crank walk can destroy alot more than
> >just that, if your crank is moving front to back, then your con-rods are
> >moving with it, which means there is extra force asserted on the wrist
pin
> >bearings. I have never tested for this before, but I would assume you
could
> >A) remove the belt and by any means possible (I know its tight in there)
> >try
> >to move the crank pully from the front of the truck to the back. It
should
> >not move at all, if it moves even a centimeter or two that could cause
the
> >belt to skip a grove on the pullys, once half the belt is off the
pullies,
> >it starts to get shreded and then it gets caught and either burns due to
> >friction or just flys off. B) you can put new parts on and start it up
and
> >while revving watch the belt and pullies for flex/movement, you might be
> >able to use an induction gun to see better.
> >I may have missed which pully is the culprit here, but I am guessing the
> >tensioner pully ? If so your belt is probably getting caught on that and
> >burning up.
> >I had replaced my tensioner pully with a brand new one from chrysler and
it
> >was screwed from the factory, I had to install a large washer between the
> >metal plate and the pully itself just to align all the pullies ( looking
> >down on the motor the new one was about 1/4" closer to the engine, which
> >meant the belt would hang off 1/4")
> >
> >I don't know if any of this makes sense to you, but feel free to ask any
> >questions.
> >
> >Marty
>
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