Re: Was Attempt no. 3 failed, sort of.... Now Crank Walk

From: Mr. Plow (adam_is_mr_plow@hotmail.com)
Date: Tue Jul 23 2002 - 23:22:56 EDT


It does make sense to me Marty.
The first pulley that went was the smooth pulley, interconnected with the
tensioner pulley-- a dual tensioner system.
Based on the fact that the first pulley that went was smooth, i don't
"think" that crank-walk would be responsible for it's damage, the offset
force of a mis-aligned belt shouldn't have muh if any affect on a smooth
pulley, should it?
I guess i'm going to blame the damage to the 2nd pulley, and the first one
that froze up. And i'll see if i can find a secluded pond to dump my dak
into soon... hehehehe
Hey Jon, you don't fish in those ponds that you have on your land, do you???
   ;-)

The Adam Blaster
Two words, figure it out.....

>
>What I did to fix it ?!? I traded it in on my Dak ! LOL Seriously, some
>little old lady bought it, ran into her a few months later and her *new*
>warranty replaced the engine !
>
>Basically, to fix the problem of crank walk you would have to *at the
>least*
>take off the oil pan and inspect everything crank related. More than likely
>you would have to replace all the bearings between the crank and the block,
>possibly the con-rod bearings too. Crank walk can destroy alot more than
>just that, if your crank is moving front to back, then your con-rods are
>moving with it, which means there is extra force asserted on the wrist pin
>bearings. I have never tested for this before, but I would assume you could
>A) remove the belt and by any means possible (I know its tight in there)
>try
>to move the crank pully from the front of the truck to the back. It should
>not move at all, if it moves even a centimeter or two that could cause the
>belt to skip a grove on the pullys, once half the belt is off the pullies,
>it starts to get shreded and then it gets caught and either burns due to
>friction or just flys off. B) you can put new parts on and start it up and
>while revving watch the belt and pullies for flex/movement, you might be
>able to use an induction gun to see better.
>I may have missed which pully is the culprit here, but I am guessing the
>tensioner pully ? If so your belt is probably getting caught on that and
>burning up.
>I had replaced my tensioner pully with a brand new one from chrysler and it
>was screwed from the factory, I had to install a large washer between the
>metal plate and the pully itself just to align all the pullies ( looking
>down on the motor the new one was about 1/4" closer to the engine, which
>meant the belt would hang off 1/4")
>
>I don't know if any of this makes sense to you, but feel free to ask any
>questions.
>
>Marty

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