I would definately suggest that you NOT change that 10A fuse to a 20A.
You've got to remember, the fuse is there to protect the wires, not the
device. I've read about those alpine units, and from the best I can tell
you should just run a seperate power and ground line from the battery. You
could probably pull that 20A thru the thin little stock wires, but the head
unit will run hotter b/c the thinner wire will cause more resistance to the
current being drawn and the head will perform poorly. You'd be better off
just running the cable...There's a rubber grommet in the firewall just above
the e-brake pedal where some wiring harness comes thru the firewall, I just
poked an extra hole in there and ran my 1/0 gauge into the cab that way.
It's been like that since the day I got my truck May 14, 2000 and it's never
leaked... In fact, if you get those Alpine units from crutchfield, they will
tell you that you have to get an amp hookup kit along with the head unit.
I've been toying around with picking one up myself, but I don't have any
more room on my power distribution blocks..... I hope this helps!
Good luck and let us know how it all works out!
-- -Josh 2000 Dakota CC 3.9L<bgillan@bellsouth.net> wrote in message news:20030204183125.ENHL4794.imf22bis.bellsouth.net@mail.bellsouth.net... > > I have a '97 SLT CC I'm installing a new stereo head unit in. It's an Alpine > cd/MP3 unit that requires a lot of current (20A). The installation instructions > state that a 20A circuit is required and they even recommend connecting the > main supply line directly to the battery, or fuse block. I have harness > adapters that allow the unit to plug directly into the existing wiring harness, > but the fuse in the radio circuit is only rated for 10A. My first question is > would it be safe to use that same circuit and replace the fuse with a 20A, or > would that be dangerous and risk a potential fire. I didn't know if the 10A > fuse was there because that's all the stock radio would require or if it's 10A > because that's all the wiring can handle. > > If the existing circuit isn't capable of supplying 20A, anyone got any > suggestions for wiring that would avoid me having to go through the firewall > and directly to the battery? > > Thanks, Brian > >
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