Josh,
I have never found it necessary to be as elaborate as Tim. I do use a no
residue solvent to clean the surfaces and definately find it easier to clean
off old RTV than the baked on residue of a cork or paper gasket. I also have
never found it necessary to wait for anything to dry. Basically clean the
surfaces, apply the RTV put it together, fill with oil and drive away. The oil
in the front an rear diffs on the Dakota were changed about 6-7 months ago and
the only oil dampness is around the push in rubber plugs on the covers.
You do need to use the right RTV for the job though. The generic silcone
sealer/adhesives in the hardware department that smells like acidic acid won't
cut the mustard as it is not oil resistance and even a number of the automotive
silicone sealers are not oil resistant. I have had good luck with Permatex
Ultra-Black and Ultra-Copper. I used the form a gasket that comes in the cheese
whiz can once on the oil pan of my 2.2 after three trys to get a seal with the
fancy 4 part rubber gasket. That material with no gasket at all sealed the pan
right up. I have also heard that anyone that has used the mopar brand has been
very happy.
Dave Clement
99 SLT+ CC 4x4
In article <c63bnk$bs2$1@bent.twistedbits.net>, jbattles@bankfinancial.com
("Josh Battles") writes:
>
>
> ""Pindell, Timothy"" <TPindell@OTTERBEIN.EDU> wrote in message
> >
> > I agree, Dave. I use RTV all over the place. I think that "technique" is
> > the key. The problems that I've had with pre-made gaskets usually have to
> > do with overtightening the fasteners and squishing the gasket material
> even
> > with the 'proper' torque. I always use the recommended torque spec from
> the
> > FSM and sometimes it's too much for the repop gaskets.
> >
> > Here's the way I do it (not that I'm an expert):
> > 1)Clean both sides of the sealing surface thoroughly. Finish with brake
> > cleaner and rag.
> > 2)Liberally apply whatever appropriate flavor RTV to one side. Go
> completely
> > around bolt holes.
> > 3)Let it skin over for about 15-20 mins. I clean the other side of the
> > sealing surface at this point.
> > 4)Assemble hand tight only. Don't squeeze out too much of the RTV! This
> > allows a mm or so of the RTV to remain in the 'seal area'. Wait several
> > hours, preferably overnight, for RTV to set up.
> > 5)Tighten bolts to specified torque minus 15-20%. Do not overtighten!
> >
> > I can actually say that I get a perfect seal everytime. The drawback is
> that
> > it takes time to do it right. I also have a garage and a back-up vehicle
> so
> > I'm usually never in a hurry. YMMV.
> >
> > Tim
>
> That's where our situations (and techniques) differ. I'm usually doing
> these types of maintenence in my driveway, and I don't have another vehicle
> that I can drive. Plus, I'm moving into a condo (and a measly assigned
> parking spot) that won't really allow me to do all these sorts of
> maintenence things. They're ok with a tuneup or something, but they told me
> not to get crazy.
>
> I like the gaskets because it's over and done with, now. I don't have to
> wait forever for it to dry.
>
> --
> - Josh
> Lowered 2000 Dakota CC 3.9L
> www.geocities.com/lenny187/dakota.html
> www.omg-stfu.com
>
>
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