Hey Mike
The spindle/caliper bracket/knuckle interface looks exactly the same as it
does on the D60s I've rebuilt. What I did was cock the knuckle to one side
to get access to the back of the knuckle. you should see the back of
spindle connected to the knuckle. To vaguely describe it, the back of the
spindle should look like a cylinder pressed into the knuckle, which the stub
shaft runs through. (if you can take a digi pic of the back I could point
it out to you) What I did was got a piece of #5 rebar (a steel drift would
do also), and had at it with a BFH. Having a drunk buddy or somebody that
you greatly dislike to hold the rebar while you wail away on it helps a lot.
I had made a stand to rebuild my axles on, but that proved to be not enough
to hold the axle in place while I was swinging, so I put the axle on the
ground and kind of stood on it while I went to town. It would also be
easier if you removed the entire knuckle assembly and took the stub and
inner shaft out, and then reassembled it. Yes it will take a little time,
but it is worth it.
Russ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Maskalans" <dml@tepidcola.com>
To: <dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net>
Sent: Monday, August 16, 2004 2:18 AM
Subject: Re: DML: Re: daily SAS update
>
>
> On Aug 15, 2004, at 07:47, Russell Yee wrote:
>
> > PB blaster smells nice when it's torched too!!
>
> I wouldn't know - there was too much flaming grease and teflon! that
> reminds me, I need to wipe the soot off the torch.....
>
> > I think it is a wise idea to
> > have the machine shop take care of the tap removal. If all else
> > fails, you
> > can try to drill a hole down the middle of the tap with a cobalt bit
> > (drilling through HSS sucks but can be done, hopefully you used a cheap
> > steel tap!).
>
> I've got no idea what it is. I didn't notice that it was there until I
> was putting that caliper on the knuckle, and saw that the hole was full
> of crap. I was expecting dirt, so I grabbed a tap, and started poking
> with a small screwdriver. Then I noticed the flutes.
>
> I started trying to poke it with a drill but made little headway. That
> was a hand drill while it was still on the axle though. I might have
> better luck (and less chance of breaking a bit off) with a drill press.
>
> > I would then freeze the entire unit, and then heat the caliper
> > bracket. Between the contraction of the tap due to the cold and the
> > expansion of the caliper bracket due to the heat, you'd stand a pretty
> > good
> > chance of getting the tap out.
>
> not a bad idea. that might even make an easy-out work, depending on
> how stuck the tap is.
>
> > I think the D44 spindle/knuckle design
> > should be somewhat the same as the D60 I have under my Dakota.
>
> the knuckles are very different, but I think the spindle mounting
> method is very similar.
>
> > Can you snap
> > me a digi pic of the parts in question? If I remember correctly, mine
> > were
> > stubborn as well, but once you know where to hit it comes right off.
>
> <http://mike.tepidcola.com/data/tmp/spindle/>
> The thin mangled piece you see is the remains of the caliper shield.
> (I'm going to run without one so I took it off with a cold chisel
> hoping something would catch and move. it didn't.)
>
> I'd expect that if I smacked it way out at the end a couple times it
> would come apart quite quickly. However I'm interested in keeping
> those threads usable.
> --
> Mike Maskalans <http://mike.tepidcola.com/dodge/>
> '84 RamCharger Daily Driver '98 Dakota under the knife
> mobile.612.618.4652 home.585.935.7129 fax.360.364.3930
>
>
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Wed Sep 01 2004 - 00:53:41 EDT