For once, I was actually doing it right. I gave up on it because the brake
was still rubbing. I took it in to the shop, and they found (for whatever
reason) the steering knuckle had bent causing the caliper to rub. They did not
have a replacement, so they heated it up and bent it back. They said not to do
any off road or hard breaking until I get it replaced. They said the heat has
weakened the metal. All I know is 1 mile of a pad rubbing makes a pretty red
glow. Fortunately for me, it didn't warp the rotor.
Thanks for the advice.
In article <4126CE47.80409@aol.com>, SilverEightynine@aol.com (Terrible Tom)
writes:
>
>
> dean_ocque@yahoo.com wrote:
> > My driver's side brake locked up. I replaced the caliper, but am not
sure
> > what the problem is now. It will not pull back completely. I have bled the
> > line, but was told I still need to keep bleeding them because there is
still
> > air in them. What is the proper way to bleed the lines? The old days, you
just
> > kept pumping the brakes a few times (with the engine off), and when you get
a
> > steady stream, keep the brake depressed, and tighten the bleeder.
> >
> > Any ideas?
>
> Did you replace the rubber brake hose? Many times if you have a caliper
> that is locking up or have problems bleeding a line, it can be a faulty
> brake hose. Try this. Try compressing the piston on the caliper with
> the bleeder screw closed. If you can't compress it or it doesnt want to
> compress easily... open the bleeder screw so the brake fluid can flow
> out. Then try compressing the piston. If the piston compresses and
> fluid comes out the bleeder, then you have a problem in the brake line
> or hose, that is restricting the flow of the brake fluid. Odds are its
> a hose - they fail more frequently than other possible causes. (valve
> blocks, brake line (metal) etc.
>
> --
> Terrible Tom -- AIM & Yahoo Name: SilverEightynine
> http://members.aol.com/silvereightynine/
>
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