I can't help with all of your questions, but might be able to offer
some info on a couple...
JameyWelch@freightliner.com wrote:
: 7. I have rear ABS. When changing the rear brake shoes, is there
: anything special I need to do, or buy?
No, there shouldn't be a difference between an ABS and non ABS
equipped truck regarding changing the rear shoes. You'll probably
want to have a can of brake clean handy to blast the brake dust
out of there. A drum brake tool kit can make things easier. Only
do one side at a time so that if you get stuck and don't remember
where a particular part goes, you can compare it to the other side.
Once you get into the drum, if any parts look particularly cruddy
or suspect, you might want to replace them, you can find the various
springs and such or a complete kit at a local parts store. Chances
are it will be fine though, so you can either pull them apart and
then make a run to the store if you need something, or if the store
has a good return policy, buy the kits ahead of time and don't
open them up unless you need them. If you don't use 'em, you can
get your money back.
: 8. When changing the front brake pads, do I have to completely remove
: the caliper?
You don't have to remove the caliper from the truck, but you do have
to unbolt it. There are two bolts on the back of the caliper, they are
female hex, 7mm I believe. You can use an allen wrench or get a hex
adapter to be able to use a socket wrench. (The socket wrench is easier.)
Once you have the caliper unbolted, you can slide it off of the disc.
Don't disconnect the brake line though. What I do is to use a bungee
cord to hang the caliper off the spring or some other handy point.
You don't want to let the caliper hang by its hose. Before you install
the new pads, you will need to compress the piston back into the bore,
otherwise the new pads will be too think and you won't be able to
put the caliper back on the disc. I use a piston compressor which is
designed to do this; looks very similar to this:
http://www.overboost.com/images/1089/DSC07823.JPG
They are very cheap (less than $5) and well worth the money. (Or,
it would be pretty easy to build one yourself if you have access to a
welder). However, you can also get away with using a large C clamp.
Just be sure not to damage the piston. If you go the C clamp route,
leave the inner pad in place and push against the pad rather than
directly against the piston (they are usually just plastic). The
beauty of doing it this way is that you don't need to open the bleeder
screw, and thus there is no need to bleed the brakes after the job;
just pump the pedal a couple of times and you are good to go.
--
-Jon-
.- Jon Steiger --- jon@dakota-truck.net or jon@jonsteiger.com -.
| 67 Dodge Coronet, 70 Plymouth Barracuda, 76 Peugeot TSA |
| 78 Dodge B100, 90 Dodge Dakota Convertible, 92 Dodge Ram 4x4 |
| 96 Dodge Dakota, 96 Suzuki Intruder 1400, 96 Kolb FireFly |
| 99 Jeep Cherokee 4x4, 01 Dodge Ram 3500 CTD |
`--------------------------------- http://www.jonsteiger.com --'
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