)
Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2006 13:09:00 -0500 (EST)
From: "Miles D. Oliver" <moliver@mmoliver.org>
To: dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net
cc: dakota-truck-moderator@bent.twistedbits.net
Subject: Re: DML: Maintenance Questions
In-Reply-To: <du79ii$65l$1@bent.twistedbits.net>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0603021258060.8382@kota.mmoliver.org>
References: <75D6F480A376D31187FF4000000006521157EE3E@cleexc1.freightliner.com>
<du79ii$65l$1@bent.twistedbits.net>
MIME-Version: 1.0
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On Thu, 2 Mar 2006, jon@dakota-truck.net wrote:
>
>
> I can't help with all of your questions, but might be able to offer
> some info on a couple...
>
>
> JameyWelch@freightliner.com wrote:
> : 7. I have rear ABS. When changing the rear brake shoes, is there
> : anything special I need to do, or buy?
>
>
> No, there shouldn't be a difference between an ABS and non ABS
> equipped truck regarding changing the rear shoes. You'll probably
> want to have a can of brake clean handy to blast the brake dust
> out of there. A drum brake tool kit can make things easier. Only
> do one side at a time so that if you get stuck and don't remember
> where a particular part goes, you can compare it to the other side.
> Once you get into the drum, if any parts look particularly cruddy
> or suspect, you might want to replace them, you can find the various
> springs and such or a complete kit at a local parts store. Chances
> are it will be fine though, so you can either pull them apart and
> then make a run to the store if you need something, or if the store
> has a good return policy, buy the kits ahead of time and don't
> open them up unless you need them. If you don't use 'em, you can
> get your money back.
>
I would add the use of a good dust mask to the mix if you are messing
with brakes. You stir up brake dust no matter how careful you try to be.
At one time there was asbestos in brake linings but thankfully no more.
And besides, Black Boogers are never a good thing.
>
>
> : 8. When changing the front brake pads, do I have to completely remove
> : the caliper?
>
>
> You don't have to remove the caliper from the truck, but you do have
> to unbolt it. There are two bolts on the back of the caliper, they are
> female hex, 7mm I believe. You can use an allen wrench or get a hex
> adapter to be able to use a socket wrench. (The socket wrench is easier.)
> Once you have the caliper unbolted, you can slide it off of the disc.
> Don't disconnect the brake line though. What I do is to use a bungee
> cord to hang the caliper off the spring or some other handy point.
> You don't want to let the caliper hang by its hose. Before you install
> the new pads, you will need to compress the piston back into the bore,
> otherwise the new pads will be too think and you won't be able to
> put the caliper back on the disc. I use a piston compressor which is
> designed to do this; looks very similar to this:
>
> http://www.overboost.com/images/1089/DSC07823.JPG
>
> They are very cheap (less than $5) and well worth the money. (Or,
> it would be pretty easy to build one yourself if you have access to a
> welder). However, you can also get away with using a large C clamp.
> Just be sure not to damage the piston. If you go the C clamp route,
> leave the inner pad in place and push against the pad rather than
> directly against the piston (they are usually just plastic). The
> beauty of doing it this way is that you don't need to open the bleeder
> screw, and thus there is no need to bleed the brakes after the job;
> just pump the pedal a couple of times and you are good to go.
>
>
-- Miles D. Oliver www.mmoliver.org . . .------------------------------------------------------------------. | Make your plans NOW to attend the National DML Meet in Colorado! | | Date: July 15-23, 2006 - More info: http://meet.dakota-truck.net | `------------------------------------------------------------------'
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