Okay my friend, just throwing in another thought. Good luck, let us know
what you find out.
Rascal
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net
[mailto:owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net] On Behalf Of Steve Preston
Sent: Monday, June 11, 2007 8:31 PM
To: dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net
Subject: RE: DML: RE: V6 CC owners....question for you.
Yeah,it's probably about as easy to diagnose a bad
ball joint by yanking on it,I know. It just seems like
I would be able to see slippage at either joint. I
watched very closely. From the tailshaft to the
differential,it looked like one single motion. (No
independent twisting of any one part.)
BTW,nothing is greasable.
Thanks! Steve P.
>
> Steve, it's very difficult to tell about a u joint
> just by the old grip and
> pull. I had to replace mine and as usual, the
> originals had no zerk
> fittings. Are you u joints greasable? I just tend
> to lean to the simple
> thing first.
>
> Rascal
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net
> [mailto:owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net] On
> Behalf Of Steve Preston
> Sent: Monday, June 11, 2007 3:45 PM
> To: dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net
> Subject: Re: DML: RE: V6 CC owners....question for
> you.
>
>
> No,I thought it probably was that,Rick,but there's
> no
> play on either end of the driveshaft. At least not
> that I could tell. But my new Elmscan 5 scanner came
> today! :) I haven't had a chance to look at it
> yet,but
> I'm sure once I do a full sweep on all my play
> sensors,it'll tell me where the looseness is! :)
>
> Thanks. Steve P.
>
>
>
>
> Rick Barnes <rascal@scrtc.com> wrote:
>
> >
> > Could it be U joints?
> >
> > Rascal
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net
> > [mailto:owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net]
> On
> > Behalf Of Steve Preston
> > Sent: Sunday, June 10, 2007 6:24 PM
> > To: dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net
> > Subject: DML: V6 CC owners....question for you.
> >
> >
> > Hey. Anybody else with a 42RE have a short "oop"
> > noise
> > right when you shift into reverse? This is really
> > bugging me. Sounds like something binding up. It's
> a
> > lot worse when I'm facing downhill and shift to
> > reverse. Then it's more of a drawn out noise,like
> a
> > groan,but still lasting no longer than a second.
> > I checked for play at the driveshaft,and it seems
> > alright. Thought the transmission mount was doing
> > it,but it looks like it was designed to allow
> > side-to-side movement. I can grab the tailshaft of
> > the
> > tranny and move it back and forth a little.
> >
> > I had my wife shift from D to R while I looked
> > underneath,and there was no unusual movement. But
> > when
> > I held the driveshaft as she shifted,I felt two
> > distinct movements,like it engages once,then
> again.
> > The driveshaft rotates perhaps an additional
> > 1/4-1/2".
> > So now I'm thinking pinion damage or something
> (it's
> > a
> > 3.55). 37,000 miles. Another thing,it does in fact
> > have the characteristic "woooo" noise at certain
> > highway speeds. I believe this was an issue dealt
> > with
> > on the list several years ago?
> >
> > Sorry for the long post. Is it likely that a bad
> > pinion or worn diff is causing both sounds?
> Thanks!
> >
> > Steve P.
> >
> >
> > --- Steve Preston <steveophonic@yahoo.com> wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > I bought some (Powerslot?) cross-drilled rotors
> > with
> > > ceramic pads as a set off Ebay about a year and
> a
> > > half
> > > ago,and they've been great. Paid about $85.00
> for
> > > everything,plus shipping. But I don't really
> race
> > my
> > > truck (4.7 4X4 RC),so maybe they don't tend to
> > hold
> > > up
> > > well with rigorous braking. But I was cleaning
> my
> > > wheels every week with wheel and tire
> cleaner,the
> > > stock rotors were badly rusted,and they squealed
> > > bad.
> > > Haven't had any of those problems since. Hope
> this
> > > helps.
> > >
> > > Steve P.
> > > --- Barry Oliver <barrysuperhawk@insightbb.com>
> > > wrote:
> > >
> > > >
> > > > OK, I have identified a problem and now I
> would
> > > like
> > > > some opinions on
> > > > what is possibly causing it. I looked at my
> > > brakes
> > > > yesterday as part of
> > > > my exhaust repair [I pulled my pass wheel for
> > > > clearance] and my rotors
> > > > are totally toast, Rusty, Flaking and grooved.
>
> > > The
> > > > odd part is that my
> > > > pads look almost new. On the pass side at
> least
> > I
> > > > have 7-8mm of pad,
> > > > inside and out. I'll post pictures as soon as
> > my
> > > > camera charges, but I
> > > > have never seen this much disparity between
> > rotor
> > > > wear and pad wear. It
> > > > seems to suggest that these pads are way too
> > hard
> > > > for my rotors and are
> > > > eating them. Oh, this combination [Morse
> > Ceramic
> > > > pads, NAPA top of the
> > > > line rotors] has almost 60k miles on it, and I
> > was
> > > > expecting to have to
> > > > do brakes relatively soon anyway.
> > > >
> > > > By way of a possible solution, I was thinking
> > > about
> > > > upgrading to
> > > > Stainless steel slotted rotors. The Stainless
> > for
> > > > two reasons, first
> > > > because I don't drive my truck every day and
> my
> > > > rotors do rust from
> > > > sitting, and second, because I understand that
> > SS
> > > is
> > > > marginally harder
> > > > than the regular rotors. I am looking at the
> > > > slotted variety because I
> > > > guess every Dakota that has ever run drilled
> > > rotors
> > > > has had cracks..
> > > > [although I am still not 100% convinced that
> > isn't
> > > > really a small
> > > > problem that has been blown way out of
> > proportion
> > > by
> > > > a vocal minority on
> > > > the Internet..] The popular combo of
> powerslots
> > > and
> > > > hawk pads I think
> > > > has less appeal to me because of the combo of
> > rust
> > > > [standard rotor
> > > > material] and increased brake dust over the
> > > > ceramics.
> > > >
> > > > Opinions?
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
=== message truncated ===
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