Jon N. Benignus wrote:
> Thanks again for the tip on the crank sensor, once I saw it was a 6mm hex
> socket cap screw all it took was a 6" hex socket bit and a 6" extension and
> out it came. Run the hex bit between the EGR tube and the head. Piece of
> cake.
>
> Problem is, it still won't run.
>
> No spark, no fuel. No check engine light, no sound of the relays.
> Background:
> Replaced exhaust system and drove to shop for state inspection. Noticed
> voltmeter was high.
> Picked up truck, drove to license office, vm still high. leaving the office
> it would only crank. mashed the skinny pedal it started and ran fine. VM
> still high.
> Got home, parked it, later that day it wouldn't start.
> Since the V regulator wasn't working, I replaced the ECU with a reman unit.
> No Start. Checked and rechecked both splices, grounds, tested coil (good),
> then replaced Crank sensor.
> I'm at a loss now.
> Any suggestions? I don't have the $ to take it to the shop, I spent the $ on
> the exhaust and then had to replace an axle assy in the car. I need this
> thing running as I have to pick up a bike from a friend's house...and the
> car needs a head gasket.
>
> I have a 12 ga pump and plenty of ammo...00 buck, #7-1/2 shot or 385 gr.
> FMJHP sabot slug?
> I'm about to use one....
>
> TIA
>
> Jon in STL
>
> 92 V6 AT RC LB
New Battery?
Allow me to reccomend against 7-1/2 shot, Splatter is a bitch. Sabots
are the way to go here.
If you still need to pick up a bike this weekend and don't get this
figured out, I will be in STL this weekend and would be happy to help...
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Fri Aug 01 2008 - 00:06:47 EDT