Does that still have the standard 10" filter element in it, or did you remove the
element and put dual cone filters at the end of the duct work? My main goal is
increasing airflow without making it suck a lot of hot engine bay air. I was
planning on doing this with a 14" air cleaner:
http://faq.dakota-truck.net/HOWTO/fabm.html
But then I saw the alternatives and thought I'd have a better chance of getting
cooler air into the engine. The only way to get cool air to the filter in the
FAQ mentioned air cleaner would be hacking a hole in the hood.
Considering the possible clearance issues, I'm thinking one of the two below
would be a good choice unless I wanted to modify a stock piece:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SPE-98499&N=700+4294925239+115&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SPE-98599&N=700+4294887855+115&autoview=sku
Kind of pricey for what you get. I'd prefer to use one of the non-low profile
ones, but those are 3.5" high above the throttle body flange. I guess I'll be
doing some extra measuring under the hood with the stock air cleaner off to see
what will fit under a 92-96 Dakota.
Matt
On Mon Feb 23 11:35 , 'Ray Block' <BPracing@wowway.com> sent:
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: jon@dakota-truck.net
>>
>> You could make your own though, and for a whole lot cheaper. You
>> just need a factory style air can (like what the GenI and GenII came
>> with stock, though you may need something with a smaller diameter to clear
>> the firewall on a GenIII). Stick a K&N drop-in in the can, cut a hole
>> on the opposite side side and rivet, bolt or weld a flange to match
>> the stock one so you can hook a hose to it. You can now have a hose
>> on each side running down to the grill or air dam area to pick up that
>> nice cool air.
>>
>>
>> --
>> -Jon-
>
>You mean like this? :-)
>http://tinyurl.com/d4cwjc
>
>Ray
>http://www.dragtruk.com/ENTRIES/20KM1FD2KWBP.html
>
>
>
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