I had mine professionally drained(and reduced to a vacuum). Even then,
when I disconnected the first line by the evap canister, I had a good
dose of coolant, lubrication, and dye spray out all over me and the
engine.
I was fortunate to be wearing gloves and a coat. Otherwise, I'd be in
trouble. Oh, and the dye took a few days to wash out of my skin as I was
cleaning it up.
-- Chris Reck Bloomington, IL>> '99 Dakota Sport + CC 4x4 V6 (Deep Amethyst) >> "It's not the meat, it's how you apply the rub"
jon@dakota-truck.net wrote in news:hqivqo$she$1@bent.twistedbits.net:
> > Tom Coulter <metalshop@optonline.net> wrote: > >> This is a follow-up to an earlier post last August (Leak in AC >> refrigerant): http://archives.dakota-truck.net/0908/0302.html > >> It's time to replace the (ever-so-slightly leaking) condenser. Can >> anyone please tell me the easiest, most "civilized" way to bleed off >> the R134 pressure in the existing system before disconnecting the >> spring garter lock joints? > > > Do you have a set of A/C gauges? If so, you could hook them up > and crack the valve to evacuate it to the atmosphere. These gauge > sets are occasionally available pretty cheap from Harbor Freight. Or, > if you've got one of those hoses that come with some of the A/C > recharge bottles, you could use that. I'm not sure if that would > depressurize the high side though since obviously the A/C recharge > type hose would only have the low side connector. I've not got much > A/C experience unfortunately, but just wanted to throw those > ideas out there. >
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