On Tuesday 09 November 2010 23:01:43 you wrote:
> In order to check for free play in the lower ball joints, you must first
> "unload" the joint. You can unload your lower joints only by placing the
> jack under the lower control arm, and raising the wheel off the ground,
> Then, the only weight on the joint will be the wheel and tire assembly,
> along with the upper joint and upper arm. Then, you can place a long bar
> under the wheel, and lift the wheel and tire assembly.
Ah ha! Ok, so doing it that way, yep, there's a problem. The passenger side
lower ball joint has play in it. The driver side one doesn't.
> The total amount of
> play is not necessarily just the up and down movement, but more important
> is the incidental side-to-side movement that accompanies it.
That makes sense. I was going with the assumption that any play in the ball
joint would be bad.
> I disagree that just because you're changing the lowers, you should change
> the uppers, too. Usually, when the lower joint is the normally loaded
> joint, as the Dakota is, the uppers will last 2 or 3 times longer.
I see your point. Also, assuming the recall work was done, the uppers are
newer than the lowers. But I can also see that by the time the CV shaft is out
of the way, the shock is removed, and the lower joint is out, it's only a few
more bolts to do the upper as well. Since both are the factory style non-
greasable joints, it's tempting to go the rest of the way and put good (Dana
or Moog) quality greasable joints in.
So how, exactly, does one replace the lower ball joint? The FSM describes
disassembly of the brakes, the CV shaft, the hub bearing, the knuckle, and the
upper ball joint, but says nothing at all about how to replace the lower. I
don't have a press, so I'm thinking that a pressed in ball joint is beyond my
current capabilities.
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