Re: water pump ?'s

From: Francis Fastje (ffastje@cox.net)
Date: Sat Aug 11 2012 - 21:24:41 EDT


On 8/11/2012 10:56 AM, Josh Battles wrote:
> On Aug 10, 2012 11:09 PM, "Jim" <conv442@earthlink.net> wrote:
>>
>> first off when u get the new one make sure it includes the bypass pipe
>> (black steel press fit, electrolytically welded to the Al pump body)
> The one I used had the tube as a separate part number, there was an oring
> on the tube to seal it, was just press fit. Be sure to replace that oring
> or it will leak. I would also recommend getting a new pump over reman,
> there's usually less issues, I've gotten a few bad remans before.
>
> I don't remember for sure but I feel like there's a small rubber line that
> goes from the top of the pump to up near the intake manifold, but that
> might be for the 318, I don't remember.
>
>> break the fan free b4 u pull the serp belt
>>
>> can be R&Red with the shroud in place
> Pull the shroud (6 nuts) and remove the pump with the fan attached. Chuck
> the impeller in a bench vise and remove the fan that way, there's plenty of
> clearance to remove it as a unit without the shroud and it's easier than
> trying to stop the pump from turning.
>
>> have to move the alt and AC compressor out of the way, no need to break
> the
>> AC hoses
> No need to touch any of these things, but I would change belts, maybe pop
> for a new tensioner if needed.
>
> Remember to remove all the old gasket so you get a clean surface for the
> new gasket. No sealant should be used, the paper gasket is all you need.
> If it leaks there was a surface prep mistake.
>
> Good luck,
> Josh
>
>
Thanks everybody for the help its all done.
Seems to not be leaking. That freaking fan is a pain in the ass.
Even had the shit tool from the parts store but no spanner wrench.
Ended up getting it with a pry bar wedged in and a cresent.

-- 
Francis Fastje



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