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From: Dave D (d.dedrickson@comcast.net)
Date: Tue Sep 11 2012 - 00:38:20 EDT


-----Original Message-----
From: owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net
[mailto:owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net]
Sent: Monday, September 10, 2012 11:00 PM
To: dakota-truck-digest@twistedbits.net
Subject: DML Digest V5 #4631

DML Digest Tuesday, September 11 2012 Volume 05 : Number 4631

The subjects discussed in this digest are:
==========
Re: DML: 4.7 valve stuck?
Re: DML: 4.7 valve stuck?
DML: 4.7 2000 CC DAK Weird issue
DML: Clutch eater from Hell
Re: DML: 4.7 2000 valves and lash adjusters?
Re: DML: 4.7 2000 CC DAK Weird issue
Re: DML: 4.7 2000 CC DAK Weird issue
Re: [SPAM] DML: Clutch eater from Hell

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2012 10:41:34 -0400
From: "Mike Sykes" <mikesykes@cox.net>
Subject: Re: DML: 4.7 valve stuck?

>>
don't really
have time or $ to pull head so hoping someone has an
idea!<<

Any penetrator should be able to do the job. Clean the area really well with

carb cleaner, then get penetrator on it. Begin waiting game.

What turned out to be keeping it from running?

- - miggity

00' stroked R/T CC
DMLer since 1996!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2012 10:53:31 -0400
From: tony@tasteofthemidway.com
Subject: Re: DML: 4.7 valve stuck?

I'm assuming the carbon would be in the cyl broke loose and wedged into
the exhause valve, not clear how I can get any product onto the carbon
short of pouring into cyl and cranking/starting it?
 
you
musta missed my post, turned out to be a broken pin inside one of the pcm
connectors, backprobing showed the proper voltage was there but it never
made it past that to the pcm!
thanks
tony.
>

>>>

> don't really

> have time or $ to pull head so hoping someone has an

> idea!<<

>

> Any penetrator should be able to do the job. Clean the area really
well

> with

> carb cleaner, then get penetrator on it. Begin waiting game.

>

> What turned out to be keeping it from running?

>

> - miggity

>

> 00' stroked R/T CC

> DMLer since 1996!

>

>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2012 13:10:03 -0700 (PDT)
From: Phillip Batson <pbatson68@yahoo.com>
Subject: DML: 4.7 2000 CC DAK Weird issue

I was driving to the store the other day and it acted like it was missing
its shifts. It would suddenly engage and jerk the whole truck. Then my
voltage gauge spiked to 18v and I got a check gauges warning. I put it in
neutral and turned it off, then restarted it. Everything seemed to go back
to normal except now my voltage gauge started dropping from above 14 to
around 12ish. I could see the lights on the gauges flickering too. The
battery isn't that old, maybe 6 months.

At first I thought it was the trans, but since the electric was wacky, I was
thinking it might be pcm related? What do you guys think?

Thanks!!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2012 13:57:56 -0700
From: David Wilker <wilkerbeast01@charter.net>
Subject: DML: Clutch eater from Hell

Hello all
I am pulling my hairs out! I have the massive Powered 2.5L/5-Speed Club Cab
1998 Sport. I initially replaced the clutch at 125k due to slipping. Since
then I have replaced it THREE times! First three came from AutoZone, last
one is a GripForce Street/Strip It lasted 13 months). What is happening is
that the center hub of the disk is separating from the rest of the disk. I
can drive @ 25MPH and limp home, but that's it. I don't race or drive it
hard. I haul nothing heavier than my oversize ass. Anyone have any clues,
past experience or good guess? I replaced the throwout bearing, surfaced
the flywheel, etc.

If we cannot afford to take care of Veterans, then we should stop making
them.
David C. Wilker Jr.
USAF (RET)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2012 20:56:22 -0400
From: tony@tasteofthemidway.com
Subject: Re: DML: 4.7 2000 valves and lash adjusters?

 Got a replacement lash adjuster from AZ today, put it in, still
lots of slop in rocker.
i had poured some Marvel Mystery oil in the
cyl incase it was carbon stuck holding valve
open.
 
cranked it with asd relay plulled so no start,
watched and valve (cyl 8 exhaust) open & closed pretty normal. started
it with cover off, ran didn't throw rocker, and sure doesn't have any oil
pressure problems! but rocker still very loose?
 
I saw a
youtube vid of a Jeep tech. fixing this issue, puts a small washer under
the lash adjuster to remove slop???
 
anyone ever try
this?
also, I noticed a dif in the new lash adjuster from the old
ones.
origonal ones are compressed untill oil pressure pumps them
up, contribting to the rocker slop and i guess in some cases throwing
rockers on startup.
The new lash adjuster aparently has a spring
inside that heeps it extended and maybe helps with the slop?
just
thought id mention it.
anyways back to my slop issue,  i didn't
get to check compression yet, BUT assuming it's normal, and valve IS
closing etc.. any ideas why the slop? all the rest of the rockers are
fine.
and does anyone know a reason I shouldn't try the
washer???
Thanks everyone for the help!
Need to get the Dak
running ASAP, the POS Kia I'm driving is literally falling apart
underneath me!
Tony.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2012 20:59:50 -0400
From: Michael Maskalans <dml@tepidcola.com>
Subject: Re: DML: 4.7 2000 CC DAK Weird issue

On Sep 10, 2012, at 4:10 PM, Phillip Batson wrote:

>
> I was driving to the store the other day and it acted like it was missing
its shifts. It would suddenly engage and jerk the whole truck. Then my
voltage gauge spiked to 18v and I got a check gauges warning. I put it in
neutral and turned it off, then restarted it. Everything seemed to go back
to normal except now my voltage gauge started dropping from above 14 to
around 12ish. I could see the lights on the gauges flickering too. The
battery isn't that old, maybe 6 months.
>
>
> At first I thought it was the trans, but since the electric was wacky, I
was thinking it might be pcm related? What do you guys think?
>
> Thanks!!
>

Whacky voltage could have confused all sorts of engine and trans controls,
start with what you KNOW is an issue.

Get the battery and alternator both tested. if one or both aren't bad,
there's a PCM voltage regulator or wiring issue. Make sure your battery
cables are good too.

Michael

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2012 21:04:54 -0400
From: tony@tasteofthemidway.com
Subject: Re: DML: 4.7 2000 CC DAK Weird issue

Check the 2 wires going from the plug on the alt. that go to the
pcm,  if not melted open or shorted could be the pcm, it controled
the alt. or i guess could be the alt.? never seen a alt run wild on it's
own but guess it could?
you could  have it
tested.
 

> I was driving to the store the other day and it acted like it was
missing

> its shifts. It would suddenly engage and jerk the whole truck. Then
my

> voltage gauge spiked to 18v and I got a check gauges warning. I put
it in

> neutral and turned it off, then restarted it. Everything seemed to go
back

> to normal except now my voltage gauge started dropping from above 14
to

> around 12ish. I could see the lights on the gauges flickering too.
The

> battery isn't that old, maybe 6 months.

>

>

> At first I thought it was the trans, but since the electric was
wacky, I

> was thinking it might be pcm related? What do you guys think?

>

> Thanks!!

>

>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2012 21:19:08 -0400
From: tony@tasteofthemidway.com
Subject: Re: [SPAM] DML: Clutch eater from Hell

Never had a clutch prob. on my 97 2.5 BUT
I had a F250 I got used
with a history of clutch probs like you.
they replaced the slave and
master, clutch disc PP etc. several times and gave
up.
 
I found the prob was NO FREEPLAY at top of clutch
pedal, the master cyl needs to be fully released  for the pasage to
open to let all fluid pressure off the slave. so basically it was like
riding the clutch pedal all the time destroyed every clutch!
Never
looked at my pedal on my 97, must be an adjustment? but 1st, do you have
the required freeplay at top pedal? if you do, you may have a bad master
cyl, too...
The f250 worked fine for years after I fixed,  had
been bad since it was new? (QC anyone at ford?)
miss my 97, love
that truck, need to save up $1000 and fix it up!
Tony.
>

> Hello all

> I am pulling my hairs out! I have the massive Powered 2.5L/5-Speed
Club

> Cab

> 1998 Sport. I initially replaced the clutch at 125k due to
slipping.

> Since

> then I have replaced it THREE times! First three came from AutoZone,
last

> one is a GripForce Street/Strip It lasted 13 months). What is
happening is

> that the center hub of the disk is separating from the rest of the
disk. I

> can drive @ 25MPH and limp home, but that's it. I don't race or drive
it

> hard. I haul nothing heavier than my oversize ass. Anyone have any
clues,

> past experience or good guess? I replaced the throwout bearing,
surfaced

> the flywheel, etc.

>

>

> If we cannot afford to take care of Veterans, then we should stop
making

> them.

> David C. Wilker Jr.

> USAF (RET)

>

>

------------------------------

End of DML Digest V5 #4631
**************************



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